Stetinden

From the Storelv car park beside Rv 827 at the tunnel under Stetind, a good path follows the river south, with a fixed rope on a slab near the start, and climbs to above the lake Svartvatnet (728 m). A cairned gully slants up right with a few easy scrambling steps, then the route works across the south-west, south and south-east faces to a broad summit plateau and north to Halls fortopp (1,314 m), named after Carl Hall who turned back there in 1889. Allow 2½–3 hours; Camptocamp grades this section T4. Watch for snowfields early in the season. From Halls fortopp descend left of the crest on easy ledges, then follow the narrow ridge with big drops on both sides; many parties sit astride it, and most move together roped with running protection. A short downclimb into a notch (bolt at the top) leads to ledges left of the ridge and the vertical block of Mysosten. Pass it by a rising ramp to the left and a traverse left with good handholds and only friction for the feet, the 'ten bitter fingerholds' of Norwegian climbing lore: two or three serious moves above about 600 m of air, grade 4+, easy to protect with nuts and old pegs in the crack. Easy slabs and steps lead up the broad ridge to the flat summit. Allow 1½–2 hours each way between Halls fortopp and the summit, plus queues at Mysosten on fine summer days. Return the same way, with a 20–25 m rappel from bolts and chain on top of Mysosten. The crux becomes much harder when wet. Bolting is banned on the mountain apart from the existing anchors.