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Sjunkhatten

1,187 m

Norway

Elevation
1,187 m
Prominence
1,151 m
Difficulty
6/10
Alpine climb
Best Season
Jul–Aug
Routes
1

Routes

1
3D Preview

Approximate line — not for navigation

An automated check found that parts of this line could not be matched to mapped trails, so it may stray far from the real route. Use it for planning only, with a map and a guidebook.

Why? 8 check notes
  • danger scan: West ridge start → Sjunkhatten: straight line 613 m (limit 200 m)
  • danger scan: West ridge start → Sjunkhatten: straight line 613 m above the last hut/bivouac
  • danger scan: West ridge start → Sjunkhatten: sustained 53° > 45° on a straight line
  • last routed vertex 613 m from the summit (closed by straight)
  • 100% approximate geometry
  • ascent 1481 m vs net gain 1174 m (+26%)
  • low confidence 0.38
  • Straumsnes → Sjunkskaret: dem (snap_failed, 2.6 km)
AlpineADUIAAIVRock ridgeNormal route

Sources differ: Norwegian 4 (prominent-mountains.no) · YDS 5.6 (prominent-mountains.no)

The most-climbed line on one of Norway's hardest summits to reach: a boat across Nevelsfjorden to Straumsnes, a hike over the pass Sjunkskaret to a camp at about 350 m, then about 200 m of grade 4 climbing (roughly 6–7 pitches) up ledges, cracks and slabs on the west ridge, often wet low down, and easy scree to the top. Descent by 4 abseils.

Elevation Profile

approximate line
05001,0001,5000 km123456SjunkskaretWest ridge start
Distance
≈ 6.7 km
one way
Ascent
≈ +1,481 m
−308 m lost on the way up
High Point
1,187 m
Time Up
≈ 6h 23m
DIN 33466
Time Down
≈ 4h 50m
DIN 33466 · same way back

There is no road or path to Sjunkhatten. From Bodø drive to Kjerringøy and along Neveisfjordveien to its end near Øyjorda, then arrange a boat across the fjord to Straumsnes. From the shore a short stretch of birch forest leads towards a cliff, then open ground rising leftwards with patches of forest, across a stream and above the treeline (waypoints given by Bjørstad at about 185 m and 325 m), to cross Sjunkskaret near its lowest point. Descend about 100 m to a good camp spot by a small lake at about 350 m. From camp, hike south up the broad slope near Sørkråvatnet (475 m), bear left above steeper ground and follow ledges, with a couple of easy scrambling moves, to the col west of point 772; snow lingers here into July. From point 772 descend to the foot of the west ridge and climb a grass slope to the start of the climbing at about 770 m, reached by moving far right with a short descent. The ridge rises about 200 m. The first pitches follow a crack or ramp on the far right that is almost always wet, with running water and slippery lichen, to a long grass ledge; walk left along it to a clear crack, then traverse up rightwards on ledges and good slabs (the best climbing, on sound rock) to exit round a corner below the highest rocks. A few short steps lead to easy broken ground and a couple of hundred metres of scree to the summit. Descend by abseil down the middle of the face: an established anchor sits on a shelf at the top of the cliffs and two more lower down; parties have needed to build the last anchor themselves. Bjørstad's party made 4 abseils with two 60 m ropes; a 2020 party made 4 long abseils of up to 55 m on fixed anchors. Climbing time is about 4 hours; most parties camp near Sjunkskaret and take two days.

Start

Straumsnes13 m

  • None to the start; car to Kjerringøy (with the ferry from Festvåg across Mistfjorden) and a private boat crossing.

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Straumsnes → Camp by the small lake3.25271872h 32m
2Camp by the small lake → Sjunkhatten3.59561213h 52m

Waypoints

  1. Waypoint:
    Straumsnes13 m

    Boat landing; arranged crossing from the end of Neveisfjordveien near Øyjorda (Kjerringøy)

  2. Col:
    Sjunkskaret504 m

    Cross near the lowest point

  3. Bivouac:
    Camp by the small lake351 m

    Tent site at the end of a small pond, about 100 m below Sjunkskaret

  4. Feature:
    Sørkråvatnet474 m
  5. Crux:
    West ridge start788 m

    Start of roped climbing, far right of the broad ridge

  6. Summit:
    Sjunkhatten1,187 m

Key Passages

  • Boat crossing to Straumsnes
  • Pass of Sjunkskaret
  • Ledges to the col west of point 772
  • Wet, slippery first pitches on the far right of the west ridge
  • Ascending traverse on good slabs to the corner below the summit rocks
  • Abseil descent down the middle of the face

Equipment

0/8 packed
Technical
Safety
Navigation
Hut & Camping
Other

Downloads

Route confidence 38%

Overview

The 1,187 m rock summit that gives Sjunkhatten National Park its name, north-east of Bodø. Reached only by boat and a camp in the hills, and climbable only by roped rock climbing, it is often listed among Norway's ten hardest mountains to climb.

Sjunkhatten (the 'hat' above Sjunkfjorden) is a massive rock tower with five ridges leading to its summit, rising above the wild, roadless fjord country between Kjerringøy and Sørfolda. With about 1,150 m of prominence it is one of Norway's major independent peaks, and the highest point of Sjunkhatten National Park, a 417.5 km² park created in 2010 that runs from the mountains above Valnesfjord to the fjords around the peak. Kartverket places the summit in Sørfold municipality.

No route to the top is a walk. The usual climb follows the west ridge by ledges, gullies and slabs, about 200 m of grade 4 climbing whose lower pitches are almost always wet, followed by abseils back down. The north-east ridge of the first ascent is technically the easiest line but has a punishing approach. Simply reaching the foot of the mountain means arranging a boat across the fjord from Kjerringøy and crossing the pass of Sjunkskaret, so most ascents take two days with a camp near a small lake below the peak. In return the summit has a view over a sea of sharp granite peaks, Kjerringøy and, in clear evening light, Lofoten, Værøy and Røst.

The mountain is one of the six peaks required for the 'Tindenåla' pin of Bodø's climbing club.

Climbing Notes

This is a climbing objective, not a hike. Climbers should be comfortable leading grade 4 (about UIAA IV) on wet, lichenous rock with natural protection, and building abseil anchors: carry two 60 m ropes, a rack of nuts and cams and slings. Plan two days: boat to Straumsnes, an afternoon's walk over Sjunkskaret to a camp at about 350 m, then a long day of approach, about 4 hours of climbing and 4 abseils, and back to camp; the boat back can be arranged the same evening. Midnight sun from June to mid-July removes daylight worries but not fatigue: in July 2019 Petter Bjørstad's party retreated from the north-east ridge after 36 hours on the go. Snow lingers on the approach ledges and ridges into July, so take an ice axe and crampons early in the season. September offers drier rock and little snow. The national park allows camping and careful travel on foot; organised groups that could harm the environment need a permit.

History

First climbed in 1909 by two local men, Egil Rostrup and Thor Normann, by the north-east ridge without rope or protection. Unable to climb back down, they tried another line until blocked by a big cliff, and then jumped onto a snow bank below; both survived. The first winter ascent was probably made in the mid-1990s by Stein Simenstad, Helga Eide and Merethe Ulven.


Season

Best Jul–Aug
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Possible
  4. April: Not advisable
  5. May: Not advisable
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Good
  10. October: Not advisable
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter ascents only for experienced alpinists
Feb
Winter ascents only for experienced alpinists
Mar
Winter climbing on the south-west ridge has been done (M4/WI4 in icy conditions)
Jun
Much snow on the ridges and approach ledges
Jul
Midnight sun until mid-July; snow on the approach
Aug
Best season
Sep
Less snow; shorter days and frosty nights

Access & Permits

Rules
  • Sjunkhatten National Park (regulation FOR-2010-02-05-131): all travel must be careful and respect vegetation, wildlife and cultural sites; organised activity on foot is allowed if nature is not harmed, other organised travel needs a permit from the park authority; motorised travel on land and low flying below 300 m are banned.
Getting There

Bodø

Bodø Airport (BOO)

  • By car from Bodø on road 834 towards Kjerringøy, with the ferry from Festvåg across Mistfjorden, then Neveisfjordveien to its end near Øyjorda
  • Private boat crossing to Straumsnes (arranged in advance with a local boat owner); boat transport in the area can also be arranged via Tårnvika Rorbusenter
  • A long approach on foot of about 15 km without a boat is possible

Hazards

  • Exposure
  • Rockfall
  • Remoteness
  • Weather