Samertskhle

Samertskhle is the eastern end of the Chutkharo–Sandro–Samertskhle massif, a 'castle' of porphyrite towers across the Lechkhumi Range. The Soviet-era guide to the Svaneti mountains starts from the Tskhenistskali valley road: drive or walk the dirt road up to Natsuli, follow the cart track past Ghobi to the river, climb 300–400 m steeply on a forest track and continue up the left side of the valley to the alpine meadows, where the track fades into pack-horse paths. Keep round the Chutkharo massif on its right-hand side and climb a grassy slope beside a stream gully to sheltered bivouac platforms among large boulders under the southern slopes of the Chutkharo–Sandro saddle; water is found 70–100 m higher under the stones. Allow 5–6 hours from the valley road. The modern marked trek over the Kelida Pass (3,036 m) follows the same valley system and passes just south-west of the massif. From base camp traverse right over grass and scree and up easy broken rock to the broad scree saddle on the Lechkhumi Range below the south buttress of Sandro (1–1.5 hours). Drop east, then climb grass and scree to a narrow couloir: 80–100 m of snow or ice, then 250–300 m of easy but loose rock in a steep, narrow gully lead to the col between Samertskhle West (3,510 m) and the main summit. From the col climb a 25–30 m wall with a crack, traverse ledges on the right of the first gendarme to the east shoulder and abseil 40 m to a notch. Continue on moderate rock with short harder steps, turning small gendarmes, then traverse 80 m of steep rock below the summit tower and climb 50 m of smooth slabs and a 6 m corner to the south buttress, which leads easily over scree to the top. The guide gives 8–10 hours from base camp. Descend by the same line with abseils. The rock is loose throughout ('live' stones are mentioned repeatedly) and the couloirs are exposed to stonefall, so climb them early and in cold conditions. The south and east slopes of the Lechkhumi Range are gentler than the north and west, but we found no description of an easier line from the Racha side.