Asatiani
3,843 m
Georgia
Also known as ასათიანი, АсатианиAlso known as
ასათიანი · Асатиани
- Elevation
- 3,843 m
- Prominence
- 790 m
- Difficulty
- 6/10
- Alpine climb
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: 2B (Russian category) (Climbing Georgia) · 4A (listed as 'UIAA', probably Russian category) (gudauri.travel)
The usual way up the highest summit of the Chaukhi massif: from a tent base camp above Juta, a snow couloir up to about 50° to a saddle, then about four pitches of loose rock (around UIAA III) through chimneys and a corner to the crest and a scramble to the top. About 560 m of climbing from the cirque; 8–9 hours return from camp, descending the same way with one abseil.
Elevation Profile
- Distance
- 7.8 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,699 m
- start → summit
- High Point
- 3,842 m
- Time Up
- 6h 39m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 23m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Juta (about 2,200 m), at the end of the road up the Sno valley, walk 1.5–2 hours up the Chaukhi river with horses carrying loads to the base camp meadow at about 2,550 m, by a stream and a small lake below the Chaukhi walls. There are no huts; parties camp. From camp it is roughly a 3-hour approach into the Javakhishvili cirque. Climb a snow couloir (about 400 m, up to 50°) to a saddle. From the saddle climb a cracked wall on the right (50 m, grade III) to a piton belay, traverse 2–3 m right into a wide chimney and climb 60 m of snowy, loose chimney to a less snowy saddle. Move left into a narrow, broken chimney (40 m) to a long narrow ledge with a piton belay, traverse 20 m right to the foot of a small chimney, and climb the open corner to the ridge. Follow the shattered ridge to the summit. Descend the same way (one abseil, otherwise downclimbing). Gudauri.travel gives 5–6 hours for the route itself and 8–9 hours for the round trip. The rock in the Chaukhi massif is sandstone and shale that crumbles easily, so stonefall and loose holds are the main hazards; the couloir is easier and safer when it holds firm snow.
Start
Juta2,149 m
- Minibus from Tbilisi to Stepantsminda, then taxi or 4×4 to Juta (about 20 km, 40 minutes).
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Juta → Chaukhi base camp | 4.2 | 432 | 6 | 1h 58m |
| 2 | Chaukhi base camp → Asatiani | 3.6 | 1,270 | 6 | 4h 42m |
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Juta2,149 m
Road end; guesthouses; horses can be hired for loads
- Feature: Chaukhi base camp2,578 m
Meadow between two streams with a small lake; tents only
- Summit: Asatiani3,843 m
Key Passages
- Snow couloir to the saddle (up to 50°)
- 50 m cracked wall (III)
- Wide snowy chimney (60 m)
- Narrow broken chimney and open corner to the ridge
Equipment
0/8 packedDownloads
Route confidence 60%Overview
The highest summit of the Chaukhi massif (about 3,842 m) above Juta in Khevi: a cluster of jagged, crumbling sandstone towers rising about 1 km above alpine meadows. Even the easiest route involves a steep snow couloir and several pitches of loose rock.
The Chaukhi massif rises between Khevi and Khevsureti, above the Juta valley on one side and Roshka and the Abudelauri lakes on the other. Its towers are named after Georgian writers, poets and artists, and Asatiani is the highest. Georgian climbers have long used it as a training ground: some 50 routes range from easy scrambles to hard multi-day lines, nearly all within a 2–4 hour approach of a tent base camp at about 2,550 m.
The usual route on Asatiani climbs a snow couloir from the Javakhishvili cirque to a saddle, then four or so pitches of chimneys and a corner (about UIAA III) to the crest. Harder lines include the north face and the Badriashvili–Tepnadze route on the WNW pillar, graded ED- on Camptocamp. The popular Juta–Chaukhi Pass–Roshka trek passes beneath the massif.
The rock is the main issue: the massif is built of fine-grained sandstones and shales that crumble easily, so even moderate routes carry real stonefall risk, and the couloirs change character as the snow melts.
Climbing Notes
Asatiani's normal route suits climbers who are comfortable leading or following loose grade III rock in boots and moving on 50° snow with crampons and an axe. Plan 3–4 days: drive from Tbilisi to Juta via Stepantsminda (about 3 hours), walk 1.5–2 hours to base camp with horses for loads, do an acclimatising climb such as Rcheulishvili (Russian 1A) and then a long summit day of 8–9 hours from camp.
The Georgian National Tourism Administration says hiring a professional guide is mandatory for climbing in the massif; several IFMGA/GMGA guide companies run courses and guided ascents in July–September. Bring all food, fuel and camping gear; there are no huts. Start early to climb the couloir while the snow is firm and before stonefall begins.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Not advisable
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Not advisable
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter
- Feb
- Winter
- Mar
- Winter
- Apr
- Deep snow, avalanche risk
- May
- Snow on the approach
- Jun
- Lots of snow in the couloirs; unsettled
- Jul
- Most stable weather; guided season begins
- Aug
- Most stable weather; couloir may be icy or bare and loose late in the season
- Sep
- End of the climbing season
- Oct
- Early snow, cold
- Nov
- Winter
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Fees
- Horse transport for loads from Juta to base camp (arranged locally)
- Rules
- The Georgian National Tourism Administration states that hiring a professional guide is mandatory for climbing in the Chaukhi massif
- Wild camping only at the Chaukhi base camp; carry out all rubbish
- Getting There
Stepantsminda (Kazbegi)
Tbilisi (TBS)
- Minibus from Tbilisi to Stepantsminda along the Georgian Military Road (about 3 hours)
- Taxi or 4×4 from Stepantsminda to Juta via Sno, about 20 km (around 40 minutes) on a rough road
- From Khevsureti: trek from Roshka over the Chaukhi Pass (3,338 m) to the base camp
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
- Avalanche