Piz Linard
3,411 m
Switzerland
Also known as Пиц ЛинардAlso known as
Пиц Линард
- Elevation
- 3,411 m
- Prominence
- 1,028 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: WS, 2a (SAC route portal) · PD+ (Camptocamp (SE couloir))
The easiest way up the highest summit of the Silvretta: from Lavin to the Chamonna dal Linard (2,327 m), then cairns past a rock bastion and up a big scree field into the main couloir of the south face, which leads to the west ridge and the summit. Climbing to II on poor rock with real stonefall risk; 3–4 hours from the hut.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 9.3 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +2,034 m
- −55 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,411 m
- Time Up
- 8h 04m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 5h 25m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Lavin station (about 1,430 m) the marked path climbs through the larch forest of God Laret to the Chamonna dal Linard in the Glims basin (2,327 m; T3, about 2½ hours, 900 m). From the hut follow the path towards the Fuorcla da Glims in gentle zigzags beside the stream to about 2,600 m near the small Lai Glims, where the marked path ends. Turn off and follow cairns over a grassy rib on a faint path to a rock bastion; pass it first on the left, then climb over it to the right on a ledge to reach a large scree field. Obvious tracks lead up it, finally bearing left into the big couloir of the south face. Climb the couloir, with a narrow 'bottleneck' and short steps of II on loose rock, to the shoulder of the west ridge, and follow the ridge to the summit (SAC: 3–4 hours and 1,080 m from the hut). Descend the same way. The rock is poor and the couloir funnels stones, so a helmet is essential and parties below others are at risk; it is easy to stray off line at the foot of the couloir. On the descent, at about 3,280 m take the western gully (right when facing down), which leads over scree and easy rock to the big scree field; the eastern one leads to an abseil. Snow patches can linger in the face into summer.
Start
Lavin1,432 m
- Rhaetian Railway (Engadine line via the Vereina tunnel from Klosters, or from Scuol/Zernez) to Lavin.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lavin → Chamonna dal Linard | 5.5 | 895 | 6 | 3h 41m |
| 2 | Chamonna dal Linard → Piz Linard | 3.9 | 1,135 | 49 | 4h 22m |
Waypoints
- Station: Lavin1,432 m
Rhaetian Railway station; parking for hut visitors
- Hut: Chamonna dal Linard2,327 m
- Feature: Lai Glims2,563 m
Leave the marked path to the Fuorcla da Glims at about 2,600 m near the small lakes
- Summit: Piz Linard3,411 m
Key Passages
- Rock bastion above the end of the marked path (ledge to the right)
- Big scree field and entry into the south-face couloir (easy to lose the line)
- Bottleneck in the couloir (II, loose)
- On descent at about 3,280 m: take the western (right-hand) gully; the eastern one leads to an abseil
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 80%Overview
At 3,411 m the highest summit of the Silvretta, a free-standing pyramid about 2,000 m above Lavin in the Lower Engadine. The normal route through the south face is an easy alpine climb (PD, II) from the Chamonna dal Linard, but on loose, stonefall-prone rock.
Piz Linard rises north-west of Lavin, between the Val Sagliains and the Val Lavinuoz, entirely within the municipality of Zernez. Its sharp summit pyramid is recognisable from far away in every direction, and it is the landmark of Lavin. Neighbours include the Verstanclahorn and Plattenhörner to the north and north-west, Piz Fless and Piz Murtera to the south-west, and Piz Chapisun, Piz Campatsch and Piz Fliana to the east.
Because it stands well above everything around it, the summit view is unusually wide: the Ötztal Alps and the Marmolada to the east, the Ortler and Presanella to the south-east, the Bernina and Monte Disgrazia to the south, and on clear days the Valais 4,000-metre peaks about 200 km to the south-west.
The usual base is the small Chamonna dal Linard (2,327 m) in the Glims basin above Lavin. From there the normal route climbs the south face by a big scree field and a couloir to the west ridge. It is technically easy, but the rock is poor throughout and the couloir channels stonefall, so the mountain demands care rather than climbing skill. Harder ridge routes (SSW and SE ridges, ZS) start from the same hut.
Climbing Notes
Most parties spend a night at the Chamonna dal Linard (2½ hours and 900 m from Lavin) and climb the south face the next morning: 3–4 hours and 1,080 m up from the hut, about 5½–6½ hours from Lavin in total. You need to move confidently on loose scree and broken rock with short steps of II; a helmet is essential, and a short rope helps with less experienced companions. Start early and avoid climbing beneath other parties in the couloir. In early summer steep snow patches may remain in the face, so carry crampons. On the way down at about 3,280 m keep to the western gully; the eastern one leads to an abseil. The hut is small (38 beds), so book ahead.
History
Around 1570 the chronicler Campell of Susch wrote of a 'Piz Chünard', claiming that a man of that name had climbed it and carried a golden cross to the top; no cross was ever found. The first recorded ascent was on 1 August 1835 by the naturalist Oswald Heer with the guide Johann Madutz; local hunters may have been up earlier, but this has never been proven. The 1802 Atlas Suisse still labelled the mountain 'Selvreta M.'
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Hut closed; winter
- Feb
- Hut closed; winter
- Mar
- Ski tours for experienced ski-mountaineers; hut closed
- Apr
- Ski tours for experienced ski-mountaineers; hut closed
- May
- Snowmelt; hut closed, winter room open
- Jun
- Hut partly staffed; snow in the south face
- Jul
- Hut fully staffed; main season
- Aug
- Hut fully staffed; afternoon thunderstorms
- Sep
- Hut partly staffed; dry rock, more stonefall
- Oct
- Hut partly staffed; early snow
- Nov
- Hut closed
- Dec
- Hut closed
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Chamonna dal Linard CAS: book with the warden by phone (+41 79 629 61 91) or email (linard(at)alpinist.ch).
- Fees
- Overnight fee at the Chamonna dal Linard (SAC member rates for SAC members)
- Getting There
Lavin (Zernez and Scuol are the nearest larger towns)
Zurich (ZRH)
- Rhaetian Railway to Lavin: from Landquart and Klosters through the Vereina tunnel, or along the Engadine line from Zernez or Scuol
- By car: via the Vereina car-train (Selfranga–Sagliains) or the Flüela Pass to the Lower Engadine; parking for hut visitors at Lavin
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,327 m
Chamonna dal LinardHutStaffedBooking required
38 beds · Fully staffed July–August, partly staffed June, September and October; closed November–May. Winter room with 6 places, partly open in May, June, September and October.