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Switzerland

Also known as Piz Güglia, Piz Güglia - Piz Julier

Piz Güglia · Piz Güglia - Piz Julier

Elevation
3,380 m
Prominence
489 m
Difficulty
4/10
Alpine hike
Best Season
Jul–Sep
Routes
1

Routes

1
3D Preview
UIAAISACT4Sources differ: T4+ (gipfelbuch.ch) · PD (de.wikipedia (WS; 4 h from Chamanna dal Stradin))Via ferrataA/BScrambleNormal route

Sources differ: T4+ (gipfelbuch.ch) · PD (de.wikipedia (WS; 4 h from Chamanna dal Stradin))

A marked alpine route from the Julier pass road: 1.5 km of rough granite boulder fields and scree to the Fuorcla Albana (2,870 m), then the Senda Enferrada, a partly chained ridge path (I, A/B) along the east ridge and south flank to the summit. About 1,250 m of ascent and 6–7 hours return, no glacier.

Elevation Profile

2,0002,5003,0003,5000 km1234Chamanna dal StradinFuorcla AlbanaPiz Julier
Distance
4.5 km
one way
Ascent
+1,269 m
start → summit
High Point
3,380 m
Time Up
4h 53m
DIN 33466
Time Down
3h 16m
DIN 33466 · same way back

Start at the Chamanna dal Stradin bus stop (2,161 m) on the Engadine side of the Julier pass road, about 2 km below the pass; parking there is very limited. A signpost gives 3¾ hours to the summit. The white-blue-white marked path heads north into a rough granite boulder field, climbs a steep sandy hump, follows the west side of the Ovel da Munteratsch past a small water intake (P 2369) into the scree basins of Munteratsch Suot and Sur, then curves up steep sandy slopes to the Fuorcla Albana (2,870 m), about 2 hours. A small stone emergency shelter stands on the saddle. From the col the Senda Enferrada follows the east ridge (Crasta da la Senda) westwards, mostly easy walking to about 3,000 m, then with chains and railings in places, mostly on the sunny south side. It passes the south flank of the fore-summit (P 3190), drops into a small notch, climbs steeply up the south flank and rejoins the ridge just below the summit, where a railing protects a very narrow section. About 1½ hours and 510 m from the col. It is more a secured alpine path than a true via ferrata: the steps are short and the drops modest, but the rock is loose and the ridge is exposed to lightning. Descend the same way (2¾–3½ hours); the boulder fields and sandy slope are tiring on the way down. Alternatively, the Fuorcla Albana can be reached from St. Moritz via the Alp Suvretta, a longer approach with more ascent.

Start

Chamanna dal Stradin2,160 m

  • Postauto St. Moritz – Silvaplana – Julier – Bivio – Chur to the 'Chamanna dal Stradin' stop.
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Chamanna dal Stradin → Piz Julier4.51,269494h 53m

Waypoints

  1. Station:
    Chamanna dal Stradin2,160 m

    Postauto stop; very little parking

  2. Col:
    Fuorcla Albana2,870 m

    Small stone emergency shelter

  3. Summit:
    Piz Julier3,380 m

Key Passages

  • Granite boulder fields above Chamanna dal Stradin
  • Steep sandy slope below the Fuorcla Albana
  • Chained traverse of the south flank below the fore-summit P 3190
  • Railing-protected narrow ridge just below the summit

Equipment

0/7 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Clothing
Other

Downloads

Route confidence 75%

Overview

A bulky granite peak (3,380 m) standing apart above the Julier pass and St. Moritz. Its normal route is a marked, partly chained ridge path, the Senda Enferrada, reached over long boulder fields: a demanding T4 day with no glacier and a wide view over the Upper Engadine.

Piz Julier (Romansh Piz Güglia, Surmiran Piz Gelgia) rises north-east of the Julier pass on the boundary between Silvaplana and St. Moritz. It is one of the highest summits of the Albula Alps, after Piz Kesch and Piz Calderas, and gives its name to the Güglia subgroup. The mountain drops on every side in large, partly steep granite walls, with the small Vadret Güglia on its north-east side; because it stands apart, the summit looks over the whole Upper Engadine to the Bernina, and on clear days to the Valais Alps, Tödi and Ortler.

The normal route is the white-blue-white marked path from the Julier road to the Fuorcla Albana (2,870 m) and the Senda Enferrada along the east ridge. The ridge has chains and railings in places but is closer to a secured alpine path than a via ferrata. Much of the effort is on the approach: about 1.5 km of rough granite boulders and steep sandy scree, crossed twice.

The other ridges and faces are rock climbs (mostly ZS, the north ridge S+), and the granite is often loose. The east ridge suits fit, sure-footed hikers with a head for heights who want a big summit without glacier gear.

Climbing Notes

Fitness for 1,250 m of ascent and 6–7 hours of walking on rough ground is the main requirement, with sure-footedness on loose rock and a head for heights on the short chained sections. Via ferrata kit is not normally needed, but inexperienced parties may want a short rope or a set; a helmet is worth carrying. Avoid the ridge if thunderstorms are possible.

Typical itinerary: early Postauto to the Chamanna dal Stradin stop on the Julier pass road (parking there is very limited), about 2 hours to the Fuorcla Albana and 1½ hours on the ridge, then return the same way. The route from St. Moritz-Suvretta via the Alp Suvretta joins at the Fuorcla Albana and has more ascent.

Snow can linger on north-facing parts of the ridge into early summer and returns in autumn; light crampons help then. There is no staffed hut on the route; the small stone shelter on the Fuorcla Albana is for emergencies only.

History

The first recorded ascent was made on 12 July 1859 by Gian Saratz and Jann Rüedi. The name, shared with the Julier pass, is traced to a Gaulish word meaning yoke or pass.


Season

Best Jul–Sep
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Not advisable
  4. April: Not advisable
  5. May: Not advisable
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Best (best window)
  10. October: Possible
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter conditions
Feb
Winter conditions
Mar
Winter conditions
Apr
Winter conditions
May
Snow on the boulder fields and ridge
Jun
Late June possible; snow on north-facing ridge sections
Jul
Main season; afternoon thunderstorms
Aug
Main season
Sep
Often stable and dry
Oct
Possible until the first snow; icy chains
Nov
Winter conditions
Dec
Winter conditions

Access & Permits

Getting There

Silvaplana and St. Moritz

Zurich (ZRH)

  • Postauto Chur – Bivio – Julier – Silvaplana – St. Moritz to the 'Chamanna dal Stradin' stop, about 2 km below the Julier pass on the Engadine side
  • By car: very limited roadside parking at Chamanna dal Stradin
  • Alternative start from St. Moritz-Suvretta / Champfèr via the Alp Suvretta to the Fuorcla Albana

Hazards

  • Rockfall
  • Exposure
  • Weather