Blinnenhorn
3,374 m
Italy, Switzerland
Also known as Corno Cieco, ბლინენჰორნი, +1Also known as
Corno Cieco · ბლინენჰორნი · Blinnenhorn / Corno Cieco
- Elevation
- 3,374 m
- Prominence
- 945 m
- Difficulty
- 4/10
- Alpine hike
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: EE (CAI scale (CAI Somma Lombardo, finoincima))
The highest summit of the Val Formazza by its glacier-free south side: up the Sabbione valley on path G39 to Lago del Sabbione and Rifugio Claudio e Bruno (2,710 m), then steep scree and moraine to the ridge at the head of the Gries glacier near the Rothornpass and along it to the summit. About 1,650–1,850 m of ascent from the road end; often split over two days.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 12.7 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,818 m
- −180 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,374 m
- Time Up
- 8h
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 5h 49m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Park at the large area below the Morasco dam just beyond Riale (about 1,740 m), at the end of the Val Formazza road. Follow G00 up to the dam and the dirt road along Lago di Morasco, then turn left on path G39 (about 20 min), which crosses a stream and a grassy plain to the Sabbione gorge and climbs it in steep zigzags. At the Zum Stock hut ignore the path right to Rifugio Città di Busto and stay on G39 over scree and grassy humps to the former Rifugio Mores and the Lago del Sabbione dam (about 2,505 m, 1 h 45 min). Cross the dam and follow G39 along the west side of the lake, keeping straight at the junctions for Punta d'Arbola and Rifugio 3A, to Rifugio Claudio e Bruno (2,710 m), about 2 h 30 min from the car. Above the hut a rock marked 'Blinnen / Tre A' sends you left: the trail heads north-west, very steeply on fine debris below a rock wall and then over scree humps and moraine, with cairns where paint marks are missing. After about 1 hour it reaches the ridge at the head of the Gries glacier near the Rothornpass (about 3,110 m). Turn left along the crest, skirting the glacier with small ups and downs, then traverse north over scree and small easy slabs at the base of the summit dome and finish up a very steep stretch of loose gravel (about 4 h from the car). In summer the route no longer touches the glacier, which has retreated, so glacier gear is not needed; small snowfields and frozen snow may remain early in the day or season, and crampons and an ice axe are then required. Descend the same way (about 3 h to Riale). The routes from Rifugio Città di Busto and from the Swiss side (Nufenen pass, Gries glacier) cross glaciers and are alpine tours.
Start
Riale1,734 m
- Train to Domodossola, then bus up the Val Formazza; summer services to Riale not verified
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Riale → Blinnenhorn | 12.7 | 1,818 | 180 | 8h |
Waypoints
- Parking: Riale1,734 m
- Feature: Rifugio Mores2,510 m
Former Rifugio Cesare Mores, by Lago del Sabbione
- Feature: Diga del Sabbione2,427 m
- Hut: Rifugio Claudio e Bruno2,711 m
- Col: Rothornpass3,101 m
- Summit: Blinnenhorn3,374 m
Key Passages
- Sabbione gorge zigzags
- Lago del Sabbione dam
- Steep debris slope above Rifugio Claudio e Bruno
- Ridge at the head of the Gries glacier
- Steep loose gravel below the summit
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 80%Overview
A 3,374 m border summit between Italy's Val Formazza and the Swiss Goms, the highest point above the Formazza valley. Glacier retreat has left a glacier-free scree and ridge route from Rifugio Claudio e Bruno that fit hikers can follow in summer.
The Blinnenhorn (Italian: Corno Cieco) stands on the Italian–Swiss frontier in the Lepontine Alps, between the reservoirs of the upper Val Formazza (Morasco and Sabbione) to the south-east, the Gries glacier to the north-east and the Blinnental, a side valley of the Goms in Valais, to the west. With about 945 m of prominence it is the dominant summit of the area, and the view from the top takes in the Bernese Oberland directly opposite, Monte Rosa and, far to the east, the Bernina.
The Italian normal route is a long walk up the Sabbione valley past two dams to Rifugio Claudio e Bruno (2,710 m), followed by a steep climb on loose debris and moraine to the ridge at the head of the Gries glacier and a final steep gravel slope. As the glaciers have shrunk, the route no longer crosses ice in summer, but the terrain above the hut is rough and partly unstable. From Switzerland the classic approach crosses the Gries glacier from the Nufenen pass road, a glacier tour with crevasses around 2,650–2,750 m.
In spring the Blinnenhorn is a popular ski-touring summit, including traverses from Italy to the Goms.
Climbing Notes
Done in a day from Riale, the climb involves about 1,650–1,850 m of ascent and 7–8 hours of walking, much of it on scree; many parties split it by sleeping at Rifugio Claudio e Bruno (about 2 h 30 min from the car) and climbing the last 670 m (about 1 h 30 min) the next morning. Good footwork on steep loose ground is needed, but no climbing skills. In early summer, after fresh snow or on cold mornings, frozen snow can lie near the top: carry crampons and an ice axe if in doubt. The final ridge is often windy and the weather changes quickly.
The Swiss approaches via the Gries glacier need full glacier equipment and rope skills. In spring the mountain is a ski-touring objective from Riale or the Goms.
History
The first recorded ascent was on 5 September 1866 by Sedley Taylor with the guides Johann Tännler and Franz Guntern. The north side was first climbed on 29 June 1877 by Charles Pilkington and Frederick Gardiner with Peter Kaufmann and Peter Knubel. Rifugio Claudio e Bruno began as a metal-sheet shelter; the stone building opened in 1979 and was renovated in 1995. It is owned by the volunteer organisation Operazione Mato Grosso and named after two of its volunteers who died on a mission in Latin America.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; avalanche terrain
- Feb
- Winter; ski-touring for experienced parties
- Mar
- Ski-touring season
- Apr
- Ski-touring season
- May
- Transition; deep snow on the hiking route
- Jun
- Hut opens mid-June; snowfields likely, crampons needed
- Jul
- Main season
- Aug
- Main season; usually snow-free
- Sep
- Hut closes in early to mid-September; stable weather but cold mornings
- Oct
- Hut closed; early snow likely
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Rifugio Claudio e Bruno is run by volunteers of Operazione Mato Grosso in summer (roughly mid-June to early/mid-September); book by phone or email with the hut.
- Fees
- Overnight fees at Rifugio Claudio e Bruno (income funds Operazione Mato Grosso projects)
- Rules
- The summit lies on the Italy–Switzerland border; carry identification when crossing between countries
- Getting There
Formazza (Riale); Ulrichen in the Swiss Goms
Milan Malpensa (MXP)
- By car up the Val Formazza from Domodossola to Riale and the car park below the Morasco dam (road end)
- Train to Domodossola, then bus up the Val Formazza
- Swiss side: Nufenen pass road from Ulrichen (Goms), summer only
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Weather
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Avalanche
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,710 m
Rifugio Claudio e BrunoHutStaffed
60 beds · Summer, roughly mid-June to early/mid-September