Piz Forbesch
3,262 m
Switzerland
- Elevation
- 3,262 m
- Prominence
- 604 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Sep
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: T5+ (SAC route portal) · WS (SAC Bündner Alpen 3 (1994), as listed on the SAC route portal) · T5+, II (gipfelbuch.ch) · T5–T6, PD, II (hikr.org trip reports)
A long, lonely and pathless route on the highest summit of the Forbesch group: from Mulegns up Val Faller to Tga and Arnoz, into the Muttariel basin, up steep scree to the north-east ridge, then an exposed ridge on poor rock with short grade II steps to the top. Popular as bike-and-hike.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 9.2 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,806 m
- start → summit
- High Point
- 3,262 m
- Time Up
- 7h 14m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 52m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Mulegns (1,481 m) follow the gravel road up Val Faller to Tga (about 1,920 m) and north to the alp hamlet of Arnoz (2,021 m); many parties cycle or push bikes this far (about 1½ hours on foot). Follow traces, then pathless ground beside the stream that drains the small lake at Pt. 2583 in the Muttariel basin. Head west up steepening slopes, passing Pt. 2811 on its north side to a small saddle (snow often lies from the lake to here into summer), then climb steep, tiring scree and occasional rock steps west to the ridge, reached at a small saddle about 150 m south of Pt. 3119 (T4–T5). Follow the ridge to the drop above the big south-face gully just before Pt. 3176; turn it on the south side by down-climbing a short chimney (II) and regaining the crest. From the large cairn at Pt. 3176, avoid the next ridge head on exposed, unpleasant scree ledges on the north side (T5+), then return to the crest. Just before the top a short, exposed but well-featured grade II step leads into a small dip and the summit. The rock is poor throughout. The SAC gives 3½–4 hours (1,350 m, from Val Faller) and 2–3 hours down. Descend the same way or, for sure-footed parties, by the steep south-face gully (up to about 40 degrees, rockfall-prone; crampons and axe if snow-filled) to Plang Forbesch and back to Arnoz.
Start
Mulegns1,485 m
- PostBus on the Julier line (Tiefencastel–St. Moritz) to Mulegns
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Mulegns → Piz Forbesch | 9.2 | 1,806 | 30 | 7h 14m |
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Mulegns1,485 m
Car park at the entrance to Val Faller
- Feature: Tga1,924 m
- Feature: Arnoz2,038 m
Alp hamlet; end of the gravel road
- Feature: Muttariel2,677 m
- Summit: Piz Forbesch3,262 m
Key Passages
- Steep scree slopes to the ridge south of Pt. 3119
- Down-climb of a short chimney (II) beside the south-face gully
- Exposed scree ledges on the north side after Pt. 3176
- Final exposed grade II step
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 65%Overview
The highest summit (3,262 m) of the Forbesch group above Mulegns in the Oberhalbstein, separated from its lower south-west top by the deep Forbesch notch. A long, unmarked T5+ ascent with an exposed ridge of poor rock, rewarded by a wide view and real solitude.
Piz Forbesch rises between the Val Faller and the Val Gronda, north of Piz Platta and south of Piz Arblatsch, to which it is linked by a long north ridge. The deep cleft of the Forbesch notch separates the main summit from the lower south-western top, Piz Forbesch Pintg. Seen from Lai Blo or the Julier road it is a broad, dark rock mountain with a prominent gully splitting its south face.
The normal route climbs from Mulegns via the alp hamlets of Tga and Arnoz and the Muttariel basin to the north-east ridge, which is followed to the summit. There are no markings beyond Arnoz, the scree on the east side is steep and tiring, and the ridge itself has exposed scree ledges and short grade II steps on loose rock. The north ridge from Piz Arblatsch is seldom done in full because of loose, slabby rock near its lowest point; the north-west face (ZS) and the south-face gully (WS) are the other documented lines.
This is a peak for experienced alpine walkers who like long, quiet days. The panorama is extensive, from the Bernina and the Albula Alps to the Rheinwald and Avers peaks.
Climbing Notes
Plan for about 1,800 m of ascent and 8–10 hours round trip from Mulegns; a bike to Arnoz saves a good hour on the way back. You need confidence on steep, loose scree, exposed ledges and grade II rock without protection; several parties found the ridge harder than its grade suggests. A helmet is advisable, and crampons and an axe if snow lies on the approach or in the south gully.
There is no hut: the former ski and hiking hut at Tga has been closed since 2021. Start early, carry enough water and keep an eye on the weather, since the ridge is slow to retreat from. The south-face gully gives a faster but rockfall-prone descent for those comfortable on steep scree.
Season
Best Jul–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter
- Feb
- Winter; steep south couloir is a ski-mountaineering line in good conditions
- Mar
- Experienced ski-mountaineers only (south couloir)
- Apr
- Spring snow; avalanche-prone gullies
- May
- Snow on the ridge
- Jun
- Snowfields on the approach; ridge may hold snow
- Jul
- Best conditions
- Aug
- Usually dry; thunderstorms
- Sep
- Often stable and clear
- Oct
- Possible on fine days before the first snow
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Rules
- No staffed hut on the route; the Ski- und Wanderhütte Piz Platta at Tga is closed
- Getting There
Mulegns; Savognin and Bivio in the Oberhalbstein
Zurich (ZRH)
- Train to Tiefencastel, PostBus (Julier line) to Mulegns
- By car: Julier Pass road to Mulegns, parking at the entrance to Val Faller
- A reservable hikers' bus from Savognin to Tga has run on some weekdays in past summers (2019 report); check with Savognin tourism
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
- Remoteness