Clariden

From the top of the Klausenpass follow faint paths south towards the Tierälpligrat, then stepped terrain marked with paint and cairns to the foot of the Iswändli at about 2,860 m (about 2 hours). The Iswändli, once a steep ice field and the scene of several fatal accidents, has become much less steep with glacier retreat: today it is a 35° slope of 40–50 m in snow or ice that eases onto the plateau of the Chammlijoch (about 3,000–3,030 m), about 2½ hours from the pass. The flatter glacier above the Iswändli is heavily crevassed, especially in late summer; do not turn left too early. From the Chammlijoch head east up the snowy west ridge and easy scree to the fore-summit (P. 3191). Descend along the ridge into the gap beyond, climb steep snow (30–35°) to where the firn tapers, and about 30 m higher on the right pick up the chains that protect the hard part of the west ridge: good rock with positive holds, never harder than III, and the chains can be used throughout. Easy slopes lead to the summit cross, about 1½ hours from the Chammlijoch and 3½–4½ hours from the pass. Most parties descend the same way (2½–3½ hours). Alternatives are the descent south-east to the Claridenpass and the Planurahütte or the Claridenhütte, or a loop over the south-east slopes back to the Chammlijoch. The west ridge is in full sun, while the Iswändli faces north and can be icy.