Oberalpstock
3,328 m
Switzerland
Also known as ობერალპშტოკი, Piz TgietschenAlso known as
ობერალპშტოკი · Piz Tgietschen
- Elevation
- 3,328 m
- Prominence
- 709 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: WS, 3a (SAC route portal)
From the Caischavedra cable car above Disentis over the protected Brunnipass to the Camona da Cavardiras (2,649 m), then west across the Brunnifirn to the Fuorcla da Strem Sura and up a steep firn slope and a short, loose gully (III) to the block ridge and summit. Best early in summer, before the snow melts out of the summit slope.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 10.8 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,660 m
- −192 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,328 m
- Time Up
- 7h 16m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 5h 19m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Day one: take the cable car from Disentis (Funs) to Caischavedra (1,862 m) and follow the hiking trail to Lag Serein (2,073 m). A steep path climbs Val da Lag Serein to point 2431 and on, marked white-blue-white, to the Brunnipass (about 2,720–2,770 m), where the last section has fixed protection and needs a few moves of scrambling (T4). From the pass go about 250 m west onto the Brunnifirn and follow it north-east, marked with orange poles during the hut season, to the Fuorcla da Cavardiras (2,624 m) and a short climb to the hut. About 3½ hours, 950 m of ascent. Day two: from the hut go back west to the Fuorcla da Cavardiras and across the flat Brunnifirn. A first steep step leads to a flat section at about 2,920 m, then a steeper slope to the Fuorcla da Strem Sura (3,112 m). Traverse the steep summit slope north-west to the rocks at about 3,220–3,260 m; this slope becomes delicate when melted out. A loose gully (III) leads to a belay (abseil possible on descent), then scree, blocks and an easy block ridge to the summit. Avoid the rockfall-prone gullies to the west. Allow 3½–4 hours from the hut and 2–2½ hours back. In late summer the transition from glacier to rock can be awkward and stonefall sweeps the steep flank across the line, so the SAC recommends early summer. Descend the same way. The mountain is also a popular ski tour from Disentis via Piz Ault.
Start
Caischavedra1,860 m
- Disentis–Caischavedra cable car (summer)
- Train (Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn / RhB) to Disentis/Mustér, then walk or bus to the Caischavedra cable car in Funs.
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Caischavedra → Camona da Cavardiras | 6.8 | 919 | 135 | 4h 11m |
| 2 | Camona da Cavardiras → Oberalpstock | 4.0 | 741 | 59 | 3h 05m |
Waypoints
- Lift: Caischavedra1,860 m
- Feature: Lag Serein2,072 m
- Col: Brunnipass2,728 m
Fixed protection on the final section; brief scrambling
- Col: Fuorcla da Cavardiras2,626 m
- Hut: Camona da Cavardiras2,644 m
- Col: Fuorcla da Strem Sura3,105 m
- Summit: Oberalpstock3,328 m
Key Passages
- Brunnipass (fixed protection, T4)
- Brunnifirn crossing
- Steep summit slope traverse below the rocks
- Loose gully (III) to the block ridge
Equipment
0/9 packedDownloads
Route confidence 72%Overview
At 3,328 m the highest summit of the Glarus Alps west of the Tödi, on the Uri–Graubünden border between the Maderanertal and the Surselva. The normal route is a two-day PD glacier tour from Disentis via the Cavardirashütte, with a short loose gully below the summit.
The Oberalpstock (Romansh Piz Tgietschen) is the culminating point of the long chain separating the Maderanertal in Uri from the Surselva above Disentis and Sedrun. It is the highest peak of Uri east of the Reuss and of the Glarus Alps west of the Tödi, and its glaciers, the Brunnifirn on the south-east and the Bächenfirn and Staldenfirn on the north and west, make it a striking sight from the Maderanertal.
In good snow conditions the normal route is a fairly easy glacier tour from the Camona da Cavardiras, finishing with a steep firn slope and a short scramble on loose rock. The approach from the Caischavedra cable car above Disentis crosses the protected Brunnipass and the gentle, well-marked Brunnifirn. As the glaciers shrink, the summit slope melts out earlier, the transition from snow to rock gets harder and stonefall increases, so the climb is best in early summer.
In spring it is a classic ski tour, often combined with a descent into the Maderanertal over the Staldenfirn.
Climbing Notes
For parties with basic glacier experience: roped glacier travel, crampon technique on a steep firn slope and confident scrambling on loose rock (one III move in a gully, with an abseil possible on descent). A guide is advisable for those new to glacier tours.
Typical itinerary: day one, cable car from Disentis to Caischavedra and 3½ hours over the Brunnipass to the Camona da Cavardiras; day two, summit in 3½–4 hours and back to the hut in 2–2½ hours, then down to Caischavedra. The hut is staffed in July and August and partly in September; book ahead.
Check conditions with the hut before going: late in the summer, or after a dry winter, the summit slope can be icy and the flank exposed to stonefall.
History
First climbed in 1793 by the Benedictine monk Placidus a Spescha of Disentis with Joseph Senoner from Gröden; they struggled in deep snow and were almost caught in a slab avalanche just below the summit.
Season
Best Jul- January: Not advisable
- February: Possible
- March: Good
- April: Good
- May: Possible
- June: Good
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Good
- September: Possible
- October: Not advisable
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; ski tours only with stable snow
- Feb
- Ski touring from Disentis
- Mar
- Ski touring season; winter room only
- Apr
- Spring ski tours, e.g. Disentis–Maderanertal traverse
- May
- Late ski tours; avalanche risk on warm days
- Jun
- Good snow cover; hut not yet staffed
- Jul
- Hut staffed; best summer conditions early in the month
- Aug
- Summit slope may melt out; stonefall increases
- Sep
- Hut partly staffed; often icy and loose
- Oct
- Hut closed; winter room only
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Camona da Cavardiras (SAC Winterthur): book via the hut (+41 81 947 57 47, info@cavardirashuette.ch). Staffed July–August and partly in September; a 15-place shelter room with cooking facilities is open all year.
- Fees
- Disentis–Caischavedra cable car fare
- SAC hut overnight with half board; reduced rates for SAC members
- Getting There
Disentis/Mustér
Zurich (ZRH)
- Train to Disentis/Mustér (Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn from Andermatt or Rhaetian Railway from Chur), then the Caischavedra cable car from Funs
- Alternative hut approaches: through Val Russein from Sumvitg (T2, 6½ h) or from Bristen in the Maderanertal (T3+, 7 h)
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
- Avalanche
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,649 m
Camona da CavardirasHutStaffedBooking required
50 beds · Staffed July–August, partly in September; 15-place shelter room open all year