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Mount Tepli

4,431 m

Russia

Also known as Tepli, ტეპლი, +1

Tepli · ტეპლი · Тепли

Elevation
4,431 m
Prominence
1,144 m
Difficulty
6/10
Alpine climb
Best Season
Jul–Aug
Routes
1

Routes

1
3D Preview
AlpineAD+MixedNormal route

Sources differ: 3B (Russian classification, route 2.8.85) (Russian Mountaineering Federation classifier / poxod.ru guidebook)

The easiest classified route on Tepli, first climbed by A. Zyuzin's team in 1938: from Nar up the Lyadon valley to a bivouac on the South-west Tepli glacier, then a broad snow and ice couloir with a rock band to the West Ridge and a final snow slope to the summit dome. Russian grade 3B, 700–900 m of climbing, 6–8 hours from the bivouac.

Elevation Profile

approximate line
1,0002,0003,0004,0005,0000 km2.557.51012.5Tepli
Distance
14.1 km
one way
Ascent
+2,719 m
start → summit
High Point
4,431 m
Time Up
10h 52m
DIN 33466
Time Down
7h 16m
DIN 33466 · same way back

From Vladikavkaz travel along the Transcaucasian (Ossetian Military) road to Nar, then up the Lyadon valley by dirt road to the village of Liya. Continue on a path along the left bank of the Lyadon past a mineral spring to a green meadow with a second mineral spring, then climb right over moraines onto the South-west Tepli glacier. Bivouac on the moraine or by a small lake below the slopes of Komlagat (3,782 m), 5–7 hours from Liya. From the bivouac cross the glacier to the foot of the broad south-west couloir, a snow and ice slope dotted with rock islands. Cross the bergschrund and climb 300–400 m of increasingly steep snow and ice to a rock band, which is passed left of centre by 120–150 m of easy and moderate rock in a corner-couloir (avalanches, loose rock; piton belays). Above, 600–700 m of snow and ice between rock islands leads to the West Ridge. Turn right and climb a broad 250–300 m snow slope on the north side of the West Ridge, bypassing rock steps on the left, to the snowy summit dome; the cairn is on rocks 15–20 m below the top. Allow 6–8 hours from the bivouac and 9–12 hours for the whole route. Descend by the same line.

Start

Nar1,734 m

    Waypoints

    1. Trailhead:
      Nar1,734 m

      Village on the Transcaucasian road; a dirt road continues up the Lyadon valley to Liya

    2. Summit:
      Tepli4,431 m

    Key Passages

    • Bergschrund at the foot of the south-west couloir
    • 300–400 m snow and ice slope steepening to the rock band
    • Rock band: 120–150 m of easy to moderate loose rock
    • 600–700 m of snow and ice between rock islands to the West Ridge

    Equipment

    0/7 packed
    Technical
    Glacier
    Clothing
    Hut & Camping

    Downloads

    Route confidence 55%

    Overview

    The 4,431 m culmination of the Tepli massif in North Ossetia, a heavily glaciated knot on the Side Range between the Ardon and Fiagdon valleys. All its routes are serious mixed climbs; the easiest is graded 3B in the Russian system, roughly AD+.

    Tepli is the highest point of a large, isolated mountain massif in North Ossetia, bounded by the Ardon river to the west and the Fiagdon to the east. It lies on the Side Range (Severny Bokovoy khrebet), north of the lower Main Caucasus Range, at the junction with the Fiagdon arc. Ridges and buttresses radiate from the summit: a jagged east ridge to Tepli Central (4,390 m) and Tepli East (4,350 m), a north ridge falling in walls to the Northern Tepli pass, and a west ridge towards the small peak of Stal. The northern slopes carry the Western and Northern Tepli glaciers, and its huge, dark north face is one of the most impressive walls of the area.

    There is no easy route. The classified ascents are combined snow, ice and rock climbs of grades 3B to 4A, all needing a glacier bivouac and a long summit day. The usual approach is from the south-west, up the Lyadon valley from the village of Nar on the Transcaucasian road, to the South-west Tepli glacier. The massif's many passes, mostly 1B with a few 2A–2B near the summit, are popular with Russian mountain-tourism groups.

    Its glaciation and route difficulty are more modest than in the neighbouring Karaugom–Tsey and Djimarai–Kazbek groups, but the main summit itself is seldom climbed, and information is almost entirely in Russian guidebooks and reports.

    Climbing Notes

    Only for experienced alpinists with Russian 3B-level experience: long snow and ice slopes up to the steepness of a serious couloir, loose rock bands with piton belays, crevassed glaciers and a glacier bivouac. Acclimatise first, start from the bivouac at 03:00–04:00 and expect 9–12 hours for the summit day. Carry ice screws, pitons and ropes for abseiling. The south-west couloir is exposed to avalanches and rockfall, so it should be climbed in cold, stable conditions early in the day. Check Russian border-zone rules for the upper Ardon valleys and your government's travel advice for North Ossetia before planning.

    History

    The first attempt was made in August 1896 by the Italians V. Sella and E. Gallo, who climbed the north-east ridge to Tepli East. In 1935 a party led by A. Getter reached Tepli Central by the east ridge. In 1938 four teams led by P. Sredinsky, A. Zyuzin, A. Japaridze and I. Kalashnikov all climbed the main summit by different routes, including the south-west couloir (Zyuzin, 3B), the west ridge (Japaridze, 4A) and the west slope of the north ridge (Sredinsky, 3B). The guidebook notes that few ascents followed.


    Season

    Best Jul–Aug
    1. January: Not advisable
    2. February: Not advisable
    3. March: Not advisable
    4. April: Not advisable
    5. May: Not advisable
    6. June: Possible
    7. July: Best (best window)
    8. August: Best (best window)
    9. September: Good
    10. October: Not advisable
    11. November: Not advisable
    12. December: Not advisable
    Jan
    Winter
    Feb
    Winter
    Mar
    Winter
    Apr
    Winter snowpack, avalanche risk
    May
    Heavy snow, avalanche risk
    Jun
    Much snow; avalanche risk in the couloirs
    Jul
    Main climbing season
    Aug
    Main climbing season
    Sep
    Harder ice in the couloirs; colder
    Oct
    Early winter
    Nov
    Winter
    Dec
    Winter

    Access & Permits

    Getting There

    Vladikavkaz (Alagir is closer)

    Vladikavkaz Beslan (OGZ)

    • From Vladikavkaz along the Transcaucasian (Ossetian Military) road through the Ardon valley to Nar, then by dirt road up the Lyadon valley to the village of Liya

    Hazards

    • Glacier
    • Crevasses
    • Avalanche
    • Rockfall
    • Altitude
    • Weather
    • Remoteness
    Researched from 7 sourcesConfidence66%UnreviewedUpdated 8 Oct 2026
    Sources & Caveats
    • merged with Wikidata/OSM names
    • Natural Earth 10m point-in-polygon + 300 m border buffer; Wikidata P17 countries whose border is within 5 km
    • Route information comes from Russian guidebooks written decades ago; glaciers have since retreated and conditions in the couloir may differ.; No current trip report could be read (a 2013 risk.ru report failed to load).; Whether a Russian border-zone pass is needed for the Lyadon valley or the Tepli glaciers was not checked; the Main Caucasus Range and the border with Georgia (South Ossetia) lie to the south.; AD+ is an approximate conversion of Russian 3B, not a published alpine grade.; Elevation: 4,431 m in the skeleton, Camptocamp and the poxod.ru guide; the older piligrim-andy guide gives 4
    • normalizeGrade of the easiest researched route
    • OSM agrees
    • Kirmse analysis gives 1152 m (raw GLO-30 1102 m)
    • curated regional name (config/range_regions.yaml)
    • 83% OSM trail graph, 0% short gaps between OSM fragments, 17% DEM least-cost, 0% straight (approx)
    • elevation from copernicus_glo30