Mount Tepli
4,431 m
Russia
Also known as Tepli, ტეპლი, +1Also known as
Tepli · ტეპლი · Тепли
- Elevation
- 4,431 m
- Prominence
- 1,144 m
- Difficulty
- 6/10
- Alpine climb
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: 3B (Russian classification, route 2.8.85) (Russian Mountaineering Federation classifier / poxod.ru guidebook)
The easiest classified route on Tepli, first climbed by A. Zyuzin's team in 1938: from Nar up the Lyadon valley to a bivouac on the South-west Tepli glacier, then a broad snow and ice couloir with a rock band to the West Ridge and a final snow slope to the summit dome. Russian grade 3B, 700–900 m of climbing, 6–8 hours from the bivouac.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 14.1 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +2,719 m
- start → summit
- High Point
- 4,431 m
- Time Up
- 10h 52m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 7h 16m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Vladikavkaz travel along the Transcaucasian (Ossetian Military) road to Nar, then up the Lyadon valley by dirt road to the village of Liya. Continue on a path along the left bank of the Lyadon past a mineral spring to a green meadow with a second mineral spring, then climb right over moraines onto the South-west Tepli glacier. Bivouac on the moraine or by a small lake below the slopes of Komlagat (3,782 m), 5–7 hours from Liya. From the bivouac cross the glacier to the foot of the broad south-west couloir, a snow and ice slope dotted with rock islands. Cross the bergschrund and climb 300–400 m of increasingly steep snow and ice to a rock band, which is passed left of centre by 120–150 m of easy and moderate rock in a corner-couloir (avalanches, loose rock; piton belays). Above, 600–700 m of snow and ice between rock islands leads to the West Ridge. Turn right and climb a broad 250–300 m snow slope on the north side of the West Ridge, bypassing rock steps on the left, to the snowy summit dome; the cairn is on rocks 15–20 m below the top. Allow 6–8 hours from the bivouac and 9–12 hours for the whole route. Descend by the same line.
Start
Nar1,734 m
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Nar1,734 m
Village on the Transcaucasian road; a dirt road continues up the Lyadon valley to Liya
- Summit: Tepli4,431 m
Key Passages
- Bergschrund at the foot of the south-west couloir
- 300–400 m snow and ice slope steepening to the rock band
- Rock band: 120–150 m of easy to moderate loose rock
- 600–700 m of snow and ice between rock islands to the West Ridge
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 55%Overview
The 4,431 m culmination of the Tepli massif in North Ossetia, a heavily glaciated knot on the Side Range between the Ardon and Fiagdon valleys. All its routes are serious mixed climbs; the easiest is graded 3B in the Russian system, roughly AD+.
Tepli is the highest point of a large, isolated mountain massif in North Ossetia, bounded by the Ardon river to the west and the Fiagdon to the east. It lies on the Side Range (Severny Bokovoy khrebet), north of the lower Main Caucasus Range, at the junction with the Fiagdon arc. Ridges and buttresses radiate from the summit: a jagged east ridge to Tepli Central (4,390 m) and Tepli East (4,350 m), a north ridge falling in walls to the Northern Tepli pass, and a west ridge towards the small peak of Stal. The northern slopes carry the Western and Northern Tepli glaciers, and its huge, dark north face is one of the most impressive walls of the area.
There is no easy route. The classified ascents are combined snow, ice and rock climbs of grades 3B to 4A, all needing a glacier bivouac and a long summit day. The usual approach is from the south-west, up the Lyadon valley from the village of Nar on the Transcaucasian road, to the South-west Tepli glacier. The massif's many passes, mostly 1B with a few 2A–2B near the summit, are popular with Russian mountain-tourism groups.
Its glaciation and route difficulty are more modest than in the neighbouring Karaugom–Tsey and Djimarai–Kazbek groups, but the main summit itself is seldom climbed, and information is almost entirely in Russian guidebooks and reports.
Climbing Notes
Only for experienced alpinists with Russian 3B-level experience: long snow and ice slopes up to the steepness of a serious couloir, loose rock bands with piton belays, crevassed glaciers and a glacier bivouac. Acclimatise first, start from the bivouac at 03:00–04:00 and expect 9–12 hours for the summit day. Carry ice screws, pitons and ropes for abseiling. The south-west couloir is exposed to avalanches and rockfall, so it should be climbed in cold, stable conditions early in the day. Check Russian border-zone rules for the upper Ardon valleys and your government's travel advice for North Ossetia before planning.
History
The first attempt was made in August 1896 by the Italians V. Sella and E. Gallo, who climbed the north-east ridge to Tepli East. In 1935 a party led by A. Getter reached Tepli Central by the east ridge. In 1938 four teams led by P. Sredinsky, A. Zyuzin, A. Japaridze and I. Kalashnikov all climbed the main summit by different routes, including the south-west couloir (Zyuzin, 3B), the west ridge (Japaridze, 4A) and the west slope of the north ridge (Sredinsky, 3B). The guidebook notes that few ascents followed.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Not advisable
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Not advisable
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter
- Feb
- Winter
- Mar
- Winter
- Apr
- Winter snowpack, avalanche risk
- May
- Heavy snow, avalanche risk
- Jun
- Much snow; avalanche risk in the couloirs
- Jul
- Main climbing season
- Aug
- Main climbing season
- Sep
- Harder ice in the couloirs; colder
- Oct
- Early winter
- Nov
- Winter
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Getting There
Vladikavkaz (Alagir is closer)
Vladikavkaz Beslan (OGZ)
- From Vladikavkaz along the Transcaucasian (Ossetian Military) road through the Ardon valley to Nar, then by dirt road up the Lyadon valley to the village of Liya
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Avalanche
- Rockfall
- Altitude
- Weather
- Remoteness