Laila Peak

From Tviberi in the Tskhumari community (about 1,250 m; 4×4 or taxi from Mestia, no public transport) a dirt road climbs south through the village past the telephone transmitters and into forest; the track from Lezgara joins at about 1,600 m. A steeper track leads to a shepherd's hut and on to the Lashira plateau (about 2,200 m), with shepherds' huts, a ruined old hut and a newer tourist shelter. Above, the marked path (white/red) switchbacks beside the Lezgaratvibi waterfall to a small plateau at about 2,600 m with water, then climbs endless steep zigzags to the Chizhdi Pass (about 3,100 m). The pass is a double ridge with a gully between; go south through the gully and descend about 250 m to the base camp on the 'Green Meadow' (about 2,850 m) above the snout of the Laila Glacier, where a few rough stone shelters stand among tent sites. The approach is usually split over two days: one guide gives 4–5 hours from Tskhumari to the shepherds' huts and 3–4 hours on to the pass. Leave camp at 03:00–04:00. Follow cairns along the left side of the moraine, cross the stream and step onto the flat, scree-covered lower glacier, using the rock rib in its centre as a handrail. Take the glacier whose tongue descends below the camp: many parties wrongly head for the much steeper ice slopes below Laila North, left of the camp. About halfway up traverse left and weave between crevasses to the upper plateau on the north side of the range (3–4 hours from camp), with Ushba and Elbrus in view. Several wide crevasses separate the summit tower from the glacier; snow bridges are unreliable, so belay here. Finish either up the right side of the broad snow slope (about 30°, possible avalanche danger) to the col between Laila North and the main summit, watching for cornices, or by the scree ridge on the right. The top carries the remains of a wooden cross. Descend the same way. Summit day from the base camp takes about 10–11 hours return according to one operator; most parties sleep a second night at the base camp and walk out over the Chizhdi Pass the next day. Aim to be on top by about 08:00 before the snow softens and cloud builds.