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Jiehkkevárri

1,834 m

Norway

Also known as Jiekkevárri, Йеккеварри

Jiekkevárri · Йеккеварри

Elevation
1,834 m
Prominence
1,737 m
Difficulty
1/10
Easy walk
Best Season
Apr–May
Routes
2

Routes

2
3D Preview
AlpinePDGlacierNormal route

Sources differ: KAST 3 (complex avalanche terrain, ski) (Fri Flyt) · YDS class 3 (prominent-mountains.no)

The standard and safest line to the ice-capped top of the Lyngen Alps: from sea level at Holmbukt on Sørfjorden up a steep gully to Holmbukttinden (1,666 m), down to a col at about 1,500 m, then roped across the crevassed plateau glacier to the summit. Around 2,200–2,500 m of total ascent; a 10–15 hour day.

About 100% of this line is approximate (no mapped trail; drawn from the terrain). Check it against a map before relying on it.

Why? 6 check notes
  • 100% approximate geometry
  • low confidence 0.46
  • Holmbukt parking → Holmbukttinden west cirque: dem (snap_failed, 5.7 km)
  • Holmbukttinden west cirque → Jiehkkevárri: glacier (snap_failed, 3.6 km)
  • unresolved waypoints: Tverrelva, Holmbukttinden north ridge saddle, Holmbukttinden–Jiehkkevárri col, Point 1738
  • waypoints at the same position: Holmbukttinden = Holmbukttinden west cirque

Elevation Profile

approximate line
05001,0001,5002,0000 km2468HolmbukttindenJiehkkevárri
Distance
9.3 km
one way
Ascent
+1,959 m
−171 m lost on the way up
High Point
1,834 m
Time Up
8h 02m
DIN 33466
Time Down
5h 39m
DIN 33466 · same way back

Start from the roadside car park at Indre Holmbukt on Fv. 293, about 9 km north of the church at Lakselvbukt and roughly 1 hour 20 minutes by car from Tromsø. Head east through birch forest, passing south of Brentberget, and follow the north (left) side of the Tverrelva towards the lateral moraine below Blåisen; a marked path leads to a summit-register box at a little over 300 m. Before the moraine, turn north-east into the steep side valley under the west face of Holmbukttinden. Between about 500 and 850 m this is a broad gully of loose scree in summer and a 30–35° avalanche runout zone in spring. At about 900 m the valley opens into a cirque west of Holmbukttinden; exit by a narrow 35–45° gully (often booted on foot with ice axe, crampons late in the season) to the low saddle on Holmbukttinden's north ridge, then follow the ridge south for about 250 m of ascent to the summit of Holmbukttinden (1,666 m). The ridge narrows near the top and is exposed in places. From Holmbukttinden descend the partly narrow east ridge about 150 m to the col at roughly 1,500 m. Rope up here: the crux is a 70–80 m slope of about 40° out of the col onto the plateau glacier, sometimes with an open bergschrund at its base, and there are open crevasses close to the line in summer. Pass over or just south of point 1738, then cross about 1.5 km of gentle glacier to the broad snow dome of the summit; walk around to be sure of the highest point in poor visibility. Most parties return the same way, which means re-climbing about 150 m to Holmbukttinden before the long descent. Round trips of 10–15 hours are typical for ski parties and guided summer groups. Strong ski-mountaineers instead traverse north-east over Kveita and Fugledalsbreen to Fornesdalen (adds 5–6 hours; transport back must be arranged).

Start

Holmbukt parking43 m

  • No practical public transport to Holmbukt; a car (or a guide's transport from Tromsø) is needed
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Holmbukt parking → Jiehkkevárri9.31,9591718h 02m

Waypoints

  1. Parking:
    Holmbukt parking43 m

    Roadside car park on Fv. 293 near Brentberget; Camptocamp access point 'Brentberget'

  2. Feature:
    Holmbukttinden west cirque1,668 m

    Cirque west of Holmbukttinden; exit by a 35–45° gully to the north ridge

  3. Shoulder:
    Holmbukttinden1,668 m

    not on route line

  4. Summit:
    Jiehkkevárri1,834 m

Key Passages

  • Avalanche runout gully under Holmbukttinden's west face (500–850 m)
  • 35–45° exit gully to Holmbukttinden's north ridge
  • Exposed upper north ridge of Holmbukttinden
  • 40° slope with possible bergschrund out of the col onto the plateau glacier
  • Crevassed plateau glacier around point 1738

Equipment

0/10 packed
Technical
Glacier
Safety
Footwear
Clothing
Navigation

Downloads

Route confidence 46%

Overview

The ice-capped highest summit of the Lyngen Alps and of Troms (1,834 m), rising almost straight from the fjords east of Tromsø. Every route crosses crevassed glacier; the standard line over Holmbukttinden is a 10–15 hour day with over 2,000 m of ascent from sea level.

Jiehkkevárri sits on the boundary of Lyngen and Tromsø municipalities, about 10 km north-east of Lakselvbukt on Sørfjorden. Its name comes from the Sámi jiehkki (glacier) and várri (mountain), and the summit is a broad dome of ice on a plateau glacier ringed by steep faces, hanging glaciers and icefalls. With about 1,740 m of prominence it is one of Norway's most prominent mountains, and because climbs start at or near sea level the effort is that of a much higher Alpine peak.

It is not a hike. The usual route from Holmbukt in the west climbs a steep, avalanche-prone gully to the subsidiary peak Holmbukttinden (1,666 m), drops to a col at about 1,500 m, and then crosses the crevassed plateau glacier to the summit. The more direct Blåisen glacier line has a crevassed icefall. The eastern faces above Lyngsdalen are threatened by serac fall and are for experts only.

Most ascents are spring ski tours (March–May), when the mountain is one of the classic long tours of northern Norway; the full traverse to Kveita and Fornesdalen is a sought-after one-day ski-mountaineering outing. Summer ascents on foot are made in July and August, roped on the glacier, with long daylight from the midnight sun.

Climbing Notes

Expect a 10–15 hour day and roughly 2,200–2,500 m of total ascent, including the re-ascent of Holmbukttinden on the way back. Altitude is irrelevant; stamina, glacier skills and avalanche judgement are what matter. Parties need crevasse-rescue skills and a rope from the col at about 1,500 m. Guided ascents (summer and spring) run from Tromsø and Lyngen with local IFMGA guides, and are the sensible option without glacier experience.

In spring, check the Varsom avalanche forecast: the approach gully below Holmbukttinden is a runout zone for slides from the west face, so pass it early in the morning before the sun warms it. In summer the lower gully is loose scree and the glacier is bare with open crevasses; crampons and an ice axe are needed for the 40° step out of the col. Pick a stable weather window: the summit plateau is featureless in cloud and weather comes in fast from the sea.

There are no staffed huts on the route; most people stay in Tromsø or in rented cabins around Lakselvbukt and Lyngen, and drive to Holmbukt in the morning.

History

The first recorded ascent was made in 1899 by the British climber Geoffrey Hastings and the Norwegian Elias Hogrenning (3 July 1899 according to lyngen.name). Hastings was one of the pioneers of climbing in the Lyngen Alps around the turn of the 20th century. The first ascent on ski is credited to Karl-Otto Sandvik with Troms Turlag on 13 May 1978. In winter, strong ski-mountaineers now traverse the mountain in a single day.


Season

Best Apr–May
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Possible
  3. March: Good
  4. April: Best (best window)
  5. May: Best (best window)
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Good
  8. August: Good
  9. September: Possible
  10. October: Not advisable
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Polar night and deep winter
Feb
Short days; ski tours for experienced parties only
Mar
Ski-touring season; cold and long days returning
Apr
Main spring ski season
May
Spring ski season with near-continuous daylight; watch wet-snow avalanches in the approach gully
Jun
Transitional: rotten snow, melting, snow bridges weakening; midnight sun
Jul
Summer ascents on foot; bare glacier with open crevasses
Aug
Summer ascents on foot; glacier at its most open
Sep
Shorter days, early snow and autumn storms
Nov
Polar night begins
Dec
Polar night

Access & Permits

Rules
  • The Lyngen Alps are protected as the Lyngsalpan landscape protection area; follow the Norwegian right-to-roam rules (allemannsretten) and leave no trace
Getting There

Tromsø (about 1 hour 20 minutes by car); small settlements at Lakselvbukt and Lyngseidet

Tromsø Airport (TOS)

  • Car: from Tromsø take the E8 south to Laksvatnbukta, then the road to Lakselvbukt and north along Sørfjorden (Fv. 293) to the roadside car park at Indre Holmbukt, about 9 km from Lakselvbukt church
  • Public transport does not reach the trailhead in a practical way; guided parties usually include transport from Tromsø
  • For the ski traverse finishing in Fornesdalen, arrange a car shuttle or taxi back to Holmbukt (about 20 km by road)

Hazards

  • Glacier
  • Crevasses
  • Avalanche
  • Weather
  • Exposure
  • Remoteness