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Große Sandspitze

2,770 m

Austria

Also known as Sunnspitz, Grosse Sandspitze, +1

Sunnspitz · Grosse Sandspitze · Гроссе Зандшпитце

Elevation
2,770 m
Prominence
1,245 m
Difficulty
4/10
Alpine hike
Best Season
Jul–Sep
Routes
2

Routes

2
3D Preview
UIAAIIVia ferrataB/CSources differ: VF A/B (gerhardhohenwarter.at (Ari-Schübel-Steig section only)) · VF A/B/C (karlsbaderhuette.at (route to the Sandspitze, 'partly via ferrata'))Via ferrataNormal route

Sources differ: VF A/B (gerhardhohenwarter.at (Ari-Schübel-Steig section only)) · VF A/B/C (karlsbaderhuette.at (route to the Sandspitze, 'partly via ferrata'))

The easiest way up the highest peak of the Lienz Dolomites: from the Dolomitenhütte car park (1,620 m) to the Karlsbader Hütte at the Laserzsee (2,260 m), then up a scree cirque and gully on the Ari-Schübel-Steig (A/B) to the Schartenschartl (2,575 m) and across the steep, partly cabled west flank (one B/C traverse) to the summit. About 1,150 m of ascent.

Elevation Profile

approximate line
1,5002,0002,5003,0000 km246Karlsbader Hütte
Distance
7.8 km
one way
Ascent
+1,315 m
−138 m lost on the way up
High Point
2,770 m
Time Up
5h 38m
DIN 33466
Time Down
4h 04m
DIN 33466 · same way back

From the large car park at the end of the Lienzer Dolomitenstraße toll road near the Dolomitenhütte (1,620 m), follow the dirt road south past the Innsteinhütte and a small chapel into the Laserzkessel; a footpath cuts the long hairpins. At about 2,100 m the terrain opens and the Karlsbader Hütte (2,260 m) appears beside the Laserzsee. Allow 1½–2 hours. Most parties sleep here. From the hut and the Laserzsee, the Ari-Schübel-Steig climbs a broad scree cirque and a steep scree gully to the Schartenschartl (2,575 m) on the ridge south-east of the Kleine Sandspitze. From there the route works up the west flank of the Große Sandspitze: long, steep scree fields without cables, a short gully, then cabled rock with one harder traverse (B/C) and easier ground to the summit ridge and a short walk south-east to the top. The historic first-ascent line in this flank is given as UIAA II. Allow about 2½ hours from the hut. Descend the same way. The steeper Gebirgsjägersteig, through the south gorge of the Kleine Sandspitze directly into the Laserzkessel, is an alternative in descent (graded B/C to D depending on the source). The scree is loose and stonefall from parties above is a real hazard; wear a helmet and avoid the gullies when busy or wet.

Start

Parkplatz Dolomitenhütte1,593 m

  • Train to Lienz; there is no scheduled bus to the Dolomitenhütte car park, so take a taxi (or walk about 5 hours from Tristach to the hut).
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Parkplatz Dolomitenhütte → Karlsbader Hütte5.8716553h 13m
2Karlsbader Hütte → Große Sandspitze2.0597832h 25m

Waypoints

  1. Parking:
    Parkplatz Dolomitenhütte1,593 m

    End of the Lienzer Dolomitenstraße toll road (open 1 April – 30 November)

  2. Hut:
    Karlsbader Hütte2,258 m
  3. Feature:
    Laserzsee2,248 m
  4. Summit:
    Große Sandspitze2,770 m

Key Passages

  • Steep scree gully to the Schartenschartl (Ari-Schübel-Steig)
  • Long uncabled scree fields in the west flank
  • Cabled traverse in the west flank (B/C)

Equipment

0/7 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Clothing
Hut & Camping

Downloads

Route confidence 60%

Overview

The highest summit of the Lienz Dolomites and of the Gailtal Alps, a pale limestone tower above the Laserzsee south of Lienz in East Tyrol. Every route is a via ferrata or scramble: the easiest crosses steep scree and a B/C cabled traverse, the classic Panorama-Klettersteig runs the ridge at C/D.

The Große Sandspitze (2,770 m; known locally as the Sunnspitz) crowns the Lienz Dolomites, a compact cluster of jagged Triassic limestone peaks between the Drau and Gail valleys just south of Lienz. With a prominence of over 1,200 m and no higher ground within 15 km, it is the high point of the whole Gailtal Alps. Despite the name, the range is not part of the Italian Dolomites; the resemblance is in the pale, broken rock.

The mountain rises above the Laserzkessel, the cirque that holds the Laserzsee and the Karlsbader Hütte. From the hut, two lines lead up: the Ari-Schübel-Steig and the west flank, the easiest way but still steep, loose scree with a B/C cabled traverse, and the Panorama-Klettersteig, a long, exposed ridge traverse over six tops with a C/D crux at the Daumen. Both are usually combined into a loop.

A toll road from Tristach brings cars to 1,620 m, so the summit is possible in a long day, but a night at the Karlsbader Hütte is the usual plan. Expect loose rock, stonefall in the gullies and busy cables on summer weekends.

Climbing Notes

Via ferrata experience, a head for heights and sure-footedness on loose scree are essential; a harness, via ferrata set and helmet are indispensable on every route. The easiest combination is up and down the west flank and the Ari-Schübel-Steig (B/C at the crux). The Panorama-Klettersteig is mostly B with C sections and a C/D crux and is long rather than hard; beginners should be roped by a competent leader or go with a guide from Lienz.

Typical plan: drive the Dolomitenstraße to the car park near the Dolomitenhütte, walk 1½–2 hours to the Karlsbader Hütte, then climb the next morning (2½ hours by the normal route, 4–5 hours for the Panorama-Klettersteig) and descend to the valley. Start early to avoid stonefall from parties above and afternoon thunderstorms. Snow lingers in the gullies into early summer and the north-facing sections ice up quickly after autumn snowfall.

History

The first ascent was made on 2 July 1886 by Franz Mitterhofer, a farmer from Tristach known as 'Kreitmeier', by the route still regarded as the normal route (UIAA II). August Kolp and Ignaz Linder followed on 20 July 1886. The original protected paths of the Panorama-Klettersteig were built by Alfred Thenius, inventor of the Thenius pegs and clamps, some of which are still visible; the route has since been renovated.


Season

Best Jul–Sep
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Not advisable
  4. April: Not advisable
  5. May: Not advisable
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Best (best window)
  10. October: Possible
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter; Dolomitenstraße toll section closed (toboggan run)
Feb
Winter conditions
Mar
Winter conditions; avalanche risk in the Laserzkessel
Apr
Toll road opens 1 April; deep snow at the hut
May
Snow in the gullies and on the ferratas
Jun
Hut opens around early June; snow in the scree gullies
Jul
Main season; busy at weekends; thunderstorms
Aug
Main season
Sep
Often stable; fewer people
Oct
Hut closes in early October (weather-dependent); ice on north-facing sections
Nov
Winter conditions; toll road open until 30 November
Dec
Winter conditions

Access & Permits

Hut Booking
Karlsbader Hütte: book via the booking page at karlsbaderhuette.at (or kontakt@karlsbaderhuette.at). Mobile reception at the hut is limited.
Fees
  • Lienzer Dolomitenstraße toll: EUR 9 day ticket (EUR 6 for up to 3 hours) for vehicles up to 2.40 m high; parking at the top is free
  • Hut overnight fees, with discounts for alpine club members
Rules
  • The Dolomitenstraße toll section is open 1 April – 30 November; from December it is closed to traffic and used as a toboggan run
  • A hut sleeping bag is mandatory at the Karlsbader Hütte, in rooms and dormitory
Getting There

Lienz (East Tyrol)

Innsbruck (INN); Klagenfurt (KLU)

  • By car: B100 or B108 to Lienz, via Tristach or Lavant towards the Tristacher See, then the Dolomitenstraße toll road to the car park near the Dolomitenhütte (1,620 m)
  • Public transport: train to Lienz, then taxi to the Dolomitenhütte car park
  • On foot: about 5 hours from Tristach to the Karlsbader Hütte

Hazards

  • Rockfall
  • Exposure
  • Weather

Huts & Shelters

1