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France

Also known as L'Obiou, Obiou

L'Obiou · Obiou

Elevation
2,789 m
Prominence
1,542 m
Difficulty
5/10
Easy alpine
Best Season
Jul–Sep
Routes
1

Routes

1
3D Preview
SACT5ScrambleNormal route

A demanding, exposed alpine walk and Camptocamp's reference route for T5: about 1,230 m from the Chalet des Baumes (1,560 m) via the Col des Faïsses, the Pas du Vallon and a steep, stepped limestone gully to the Col de l'Obiou, then an exposed arête and ledge traverse to the summit. About 4 hours up, 2½ down.

Elevation Profile

approximate line
1,5002,0002,5003,0000 km123456Col des FaïssesCol de l'Obiou
Distance
6.2 km
one way
Ascent
+1,311 m
−82 m lost on the way up
High Point
2,789 m
Time Up
5h 18m
DIN 33466
Time Down
3h 40m
DIN 33466 · same way back

Park at the Chalet des Baumes (about 1,560 m), reached by a small road from Les Payas (Pellafol) near Corps; the road beyond to the Col des Faïsses is closed to motor vehicles. A path marked by a cairn climbs the pasture beside a fence to the Col des Faïsses (about 1,700 m), with the small Refuge Louis Debastiani shelter. From here carmine-red waymarks and cairns lead west over the grassy ridge and small rock bands of the Pas du Vallon, then traverse into the scree bowl of the Bénitier. Above, the path climbs a stony rib to the foot of the cliffs and then a long, steep gully of limestone strata like a staircase (the 'escaliers dévoluyards'), with hands needed in places, to the Col de l'Obiou (the 'Épaule', about 2,440–2,464 m) between the Petit and Grand Obiou. This gully is exposed to rockfall from parties above; a helmet is advised. From the col, go west up a scree cone past a big boulder, traverse south-west to the foot of an arête above the Combe de la Fuvelle and climb it (steep, easy, exposed), then traverse the west face on sloping, slippery slabs and ledges (the 'Cravate'). A last rocky couloir and some zigzags lead to the broad summit plateau (2,789 m). Descend the same way with extra care: although it is not climbing, a fall in the exposed passages would very likely be fatal. Snow patches can last into early July and then crampons and an ice axe are essential; several parties have turned back at a snowy Cravate. Only go in dry weather. The Chatières variant from the col (two narrow chimneys with UIAA II–III moves, rucksack hauled through) is less exposed but needs climbing experience.

Start

Chalet des Baumes1,556 m

  • No public transport to Les Payas or the Chalet des Baumes was found; the nearest town is Corps.
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Chalet des Baumes → Grande Tête de l'Obiou6.21,311825h 18m

Waypoints

  1. Parking:
    Chalet des Baumes1,556 m
  2. Col:
    Col des Faïsses1,700 m
  3. Bivouac:
    Refuge Louis Debastiani1,705 m
  4. Feature:
    Pas du Vallon1,894 m

    Small rock bands on the grassy ridge west of the Col des Faïsses

  5. Col:
    Col de l'Obiou2,465 m

    'L'Épaule', between the Petit and Grand Obiou; top of the stepped rockfall-prone gully

  6. Summit:
    Grande Tête de l'Obiou2,789 m

Key Passages

  • Pas du Vallon
  • Stepped limestone gully to the Col de l'Obiou (rockfall)
  • Exposed arête above the Combe de la Fuvelle
  • Cravate ledge traverse across the west face

Equipment

0/6 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Clothing
Other

Downloads

Route confidence 85%

Overview

The highest summit of the Dévoluy (2,789 m), a limestone tower standing at the north end of the massif above the Trièves and the Drac gorges. The normal route is an exposed, rockfall-prone alpine walk — Camptocamp's reference route for T5.

The Obiou rises in isolation at the northern tip of the western Dévoluy chain in Isère, roughly halfway between Grenoble and Gap. Like Mont Aiguille in the nearby Vercors it is a butte-témoin — an erosional remnant of a former plateau — made of Upper Jurassic limestone capped by Upper Cretaceous rock, and its outline is recognisable from much of the western Alps. It faces the Vercors to the west, the Taillefer to the north and the Écrins to the east.

The normal route from the Chalet des Baumes above Les Payas is popular but serious: about 1,230 m of ascent, a steep stepped gully exposed to rockfall from other parties, then an exposed arête and a ledge traverse across the west face. No rope is normally needed, but it is graded T5 and a slip in the exposed sections would very likely be fatal. Other lines — the historic Marie-Thérèse and Paul Arthaud routes, the Chatières, the Rattier and Malpasset ridges, and the north-west face — involve real climbing on often poor rock.

The mountain is also known for two air disasters: a USAAF B-17 in 1946 and, in 1950, a Canadian DC-4 carrying pilgrims back from Rome, which killed 58; a memorial cemetery stands at La Salette-Fallavaux.

Climbing Notes

This is for experienced, sure-footed mountain walkers with a head for heights; allow 6½–7 hours round trip plus breaks. Go only in dry weather and avoid busy weekends if possible: rockfall from parties above in the gully to the Col de l'Obiou is the main objective hazard, so wear a helmet and keep moving through it. The Cravate slabs are slippery when wet and dangerous when snow-covered; snow patches often linger into early July, and then crampons and an ice axe are essential. Descend with as much care as the ascent. There is no water above the Col des Faïsses. The small Refuge Louis Debastiani at the col sleeps about four; camping is possible near the Refuge de la Samblue. Hire a guide in Grenoble or the Trièves if you are unsure about exposure.

History

An ascent of the Grande Tête de l'Obiou was described by Henri Ferrand in the Annuaire du Club Alpin Français in 1876. The first winter ascent was made on 15 January 1928 by Charles Buisson, Henri Gazin, Mlle A. Missiroli, Gilbert Paulin and Léon Royer. On 29 August 1946 a USAAF B-17G crashed between the Petit Obiou and the Grande Tête, killing all 11 aboard; the wreck was found by hikers only on 26 September. On 13 November 1950 the Curtiss-Reid DC-4 'Pèlerin Canadien' (CF-EDN), returning pilgrims from Rome to Montreal, struck the mountain, killing all 58 aboard. The name is usually derived from the Franco-Provençal 'testo do biou', 'ox head'.


Season

Best Jul–Sep
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Not advisable
  4. April: Not advisable
  5. May: Possible
  6. June: Good
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Best (best window)
  10. October: Good
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter mountaineering only
Feb
Winter mountaineering only
Mar
Ski-touring to the Col de l'Obiou for experienced parties
Apr
Snow on the route
May
Snow patches in the gully and on the Cravate; crampons and ice axe
Jun
Snow may linger until early July
Jul
Start early; afternoon storms
Aug
Start early; afternoon storms
Oct
Early snow and ice make the slabs dangerous
Nov
Winter conditions
Dec
Winter conditions

Access & Permits

Rules
  • The road beyond the Chalet des Baumes to the Col des Faïsses is closed to motor vehicles except authorised users; park at the Chalet des Baumes
Getting There

Corps

Grenoble Alpes-Isère (GNB); Lyon-Saint-Exupéry (LYS)

  • Car: N85 (Route Napoléon) from Grenoble via La Mure to Corps, then towards the Sautet dam and Les Payas (Pellafol); north of Les Payas follow the small road signed 'Col de la Samblue, Col des Faïsses, Obiou' to the Chalet des Baumes
  • No public transport to the trailhead

Hazards

  • Rockfall
  • Exposure
  • Weather

Huts & Shelters

1
  • Refuge Louis DebastianiBivouacUnstaffed

    Open all year (unstaffed shelter)

    1,699 m