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Italy

Elevation
3,326 m
Prominence
836 m
Difficulty
5/10
Easy alpine
Best Season
Jul–Aug
Routes
1

Routes

1
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SACT5ScrambleNormal route

Sources differ: EE (Courmayeur Trail)

A long, unglaciated day walk to the highest summit of the Valdigne outside the Mont Blanc massif: a good path to the Bonalex alp (2,340 m), then about 900 m of steep grass, scree and loose gullies, waymarked only with yellow paint and cairns, to a broad summit facing the Grandes Jorasses. About 1,580 m of ascent.

Elevation Profile

1,5002,0002,5003,0003,5000 km123456Col de la Rochère
Distance
6.7 km
one way
Ascent
+1,601 m
start → summit
High Point
3,326 m
Time Up
6h 16m
DIN 33466
Time Down
4h 11m
DIN 33466 · same way back

From the car park at the end of the road at Planaval (about 1,760 m), above La Salle, follow the dirt road almost level for 1.6 km to the Les Éculés alp (1,887 m), cross the stream and take path no. 7 up meadows and old landslide debris. A 300 m step closes the valley; the path zigzags up its right side to a shoulder at the start of the Bonalex basin and the Bonalex alp (2,340 m), 1¼–1½ hours. The Grande Rochère's SE face and E ridge rise opposite. Drop to the flat valley floor, cross the stream on stones and climb the grassy slope left of the rounded spur coming down from the summit ridge, slanting right on faint traces. Above about 2,650 m the slope steepens into scree; zigzag up to a broad, broken rock band, traverse right along its base (white arrows), then slant up right by cairns onto a more obvious rib and follow it on grass and small rocks. The traces lead into the scree gully descending from the col between the Grande Rochère and the Petite Rochère; just before the col, turn right and climb the final slope through tilted rock and rubble ledges to the broad summit, 2¾–3¼ hours from Bonalex. There is no real path above Bonalex and the line must be found in places, but there is no climbing. The final gully is loose and steep, with stones easily knocked down onto people below, and the gully can hold snow into early summer. Descend the same way in 2–2½ hours; from Bonalex the alp road is an alternative back to Planaval.

Start

Planaval1,766 m

  • No public transport to Planaval (Courmayeur Trail); buses run along the main Aosta Valley road to La Salle.
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Planaval → Grande Rochère6.71,601416h 16m

Waypoints

  1. Parking:
    Planaval1,766 m

    Car park at the end of the paved road

  2. Feature:
    Les Éculés1,878 m
  3. Feature:
    Bonalex2,340 m

    Alp at the start of the upper basin

  4. Col:
    Col de la Rochère3,183 m

    Route turns right onto the final slope just below the col

  5. Summit:
    Grande Rochère3,326 m

Key Passages

  • 300 m step below the Bonalex basin
  • Pathless grass and scree above Bonalex
  • Traverse below the broken rock band (white arrows)
  • Loose gully below the Col de la Rochère and final rubble slope

Equipment

0/6 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Clothing
Navigation
Other

Downloads

Route confidence 70%

Overview

At 3,326 m the highest summit of the Valdigne outside the Mont Blanc massif, a broad, shattered rock peak above La Salle. The normal route is a long pathless walk and easy scramble (T5) from Planaval, rewarded by a full 360° view from Mont Blanc to the Monte Rosa.

The Grande Rochère stands on the long ridge between the upper Aosta Valley and the Great St Bernard valley, north of La Salle and Morgex. Seen from the Malatra valley above Courmayeur it is a wide, crumbling rock wall that looks impossible for walkers. The south-east side, above the Bonalex basin, is gentler: a steep grassy slope cut by scree gullies and capped with rubble.

The normal route from Planaval is a long day of about 1,580 m: an easy path to the Bonalex alp, then roughly 900 m on faint traces, cairns and yellow paint marks, finishing up a loose scree gully and a final rubble slope. There is no glacier and no real climbing, but route-finding, loose ground and the height make it a serious outing for strong, experienced walkers.

Because it is the highest point for some distance, the summit has a true 360° panorama: the Grandes Jorasses and Mont Blanc across the valley, and the Rutor, Gran Paradiso, Grand Combin, Dent d'Hérens, Matterhorn and Monte Rosa further away. You are unlikely to meet many people.

Climbing Notes

You need the fitness for 1,580 m of ascent and 6–7 hours round trip, confident footwork on steep grass and loose scree, and the ability to follow a faint, sometimes unmarked line; carry a GPS track. There is no hut, water or mobile signal for most of the route above the Éculés alp, so carry everything you need.

Start early: the upper slopes face south-east and get hot, and afternoon storms are common in summer. The shaded gully below the Col de la Rochère can hold snow late in the season, when an ice axe and spikes or crampons are useful. Keep parties close together in the gully to limit stonefall.

The season is roughly late June to mid-September. In winter and spring the mountain is a ski-touring objective from Planaval; that is a different undertaking, with avalanche-prone slopes.

History

The first recorded ascent was made in 1832 by Captain Albert and Casalegno, topographers of the Sardinian General Staff. Damiano Marinelli described an ascent made in 1878 in the Bollettino del CAI (1879).


Season

Best Jul–Aug
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Possible
  4. April: Possible
  5. May: Not advisable
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Good
  10. October: Possible
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter; ski touring only, for experienced parties
Feb
Winter conditions
Mar
Ski touring from Planaval; avalanche risk
Apr
Ski touring; not a walking route
May
Snow on the upper slopes
Jun
From late June; snow likely in the final gully
Jul
Best season; start early to avoid heat and storms
Aug
Best season
Sep
Good until mid-September
Oct
Possible before the first snow; short days
Nov
Winter conditions
Dec
Winter conditions

Access & Permits

Getting There

La Salle (Aosta Valley); Morgex and Courmayeur nearby

Turin Airport (TRN); Geneva Airport (GVA) via the Mont Blanc Tunnel

  • By car: A5 motorway to the Morgex exit, then to La Salle and up the minor road via Remondey, Cheverel and Morge to the end of the paved road at Planaval
  • No public transport reaches Planaval; buses run along the main valley road through La Salle

Hazards

  • Rockfall
  • Weather
  • Remoteness