Grande Rochère
3,326 m
Italy
- Elevation
- 3,326 m
- Prominence
- 836 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Overview
At 3,326 m the highest summit of the Valdigne outside the Mont Blanc massif, a broad, shattered rock peak above La Salle. The normal route is a long pathless walk and easy scramble (T5) from Planaval, rewarded by a full 360° view from Mont Blanc to the Monte Rosa.
The Grande Rochère stands on the long ridge between the upper Aosta Valley and the Great St Bernard valley, north of La Salle and Morgex. Seen from the Malatra valley above Courmayeur it is a wide, crumbling rock wall that looks impossible for walkers. The south-east side, above the Bonalex basin, is gentler: a steep grassy slope cut by scree gullies and capped with rubble.
The normal route from Planaval is a long day of about 1,580 m: an easy path to the Bonalex alp, then roughly 900 m on faint traces, cairns and yellow paint marks, finishing up a loose scree gully and a final rubble slope. There is no glacier and no real climbing, but route-finding, loose ground and the height make it a serious outing for strong, experienced walkers.
Because it is the highest point for some distance, the summit has a true 360° panorama: the Grandes Jorasses and Mont Blanc across the valley, and the Rutor, Gran Paradiso, Grand Combin, Dent d'Hérens, Matterhorn and Monte Rosa further away. You are unlikely to meet many people.
Climbing Notes
You need the fitness for 1,580 m of ascent and 6–7 hours round trip, confident footwork on steep grass and loose scree, and the ability to follow a faint, sometimes unmarked line; carry a GPS track. There is no hut, water or mobile signal for most of the route above the Éculés alp, so carry everything you need.
Start early: the upper slopes face south-east and get hot, and afternoon storms are common in summer. The shaded gully below the Col de la Rochère can hold snow late in the season, when an ice axe and spikes or crampons are useful. Keep parties close together in the gully to limit stonefall.
The season is roughly late June to mid-September. In winter and spring the mountain is a ski-touring objective from Planaval; that is a different undertaking, with avalanche-prone slopes.
History
The first recorded ascent was made in 1832 by Captain Albert and Casalegno, topographers of the Sardinian General Staff. Damiano Marinelli described an ascent made in 1878 in the Bollettino del CAI (1879).
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; ski touring only, for experienced parties
- Feb
- Winter conditions
- Mar
- Ski touring from Planaval; avalanche risk
- Apr
- Ski touring; not a walking route
- May
- Snow on the upper slopes
- Jun
- From late June; snow likely in the final gully
- Jul
- Best season; start early to avoid heat and storms
- Aug
- Best season
- Sep
- Good until mid-September
- Oct
- Possible before the first snow; short days
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Getting There
La Salle (Aosta Valley); Morgex and Courmayeur nearby
Turin Airport (TRN); Geneva Airport (GVA) via the Mont Blanc Tunnel
- By car: A5 motorway to the Morgex exit, then to La Salle and up the minor road via Remondey, Cheverel and Morge to the end of the paved road at Planaval
- No public transport reaches Planaval; buses run along the main valley road through La Salle
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Weather
- Remoteness