Doldenhorn

Day 1: from Kandersteg follow the road towards the Oeschinensee to point 1340, then the steep hut path (a cabled rock section) through larch forest to the Doldenhornhütte (1,915 m), about 2–3 hours. Day 2: a clear, red-marked path crosses the gentle slopes of Oberer Biberg to point 2202 and climbs a pronounced moraine to point 2406. Traverse left across the Staubbachgraben to the scree ridge below Bim Spitze Stei, a characteristic leaning monolith; pass it on the west side by a horizontal ledge with a steel cable, climb a rock step diagonally right (cables) and reach the scree dome at point 2973, where you step onto the glacier. Watch the paint marks in the dark; the path to Spitze Stei is about T3+. On the glacier, cross longitudinal crevasses at the start, then a first large transverse crevasse (in good snow passable close to the rock wall of the Kleindoldenhorn) and the main crevasse zone at about 3,350–3,400 m, which spans almost the whole ramp and is the crux of the route; it is usually crossed on the east side or in the middle, otherwise turned at the far edges. The Doldensattel (3,436 m) between the Kleindoldenhorn and the Doldenhorn follows quickly. Finish up the often icy final slope and a narrow snow ridge to the summit. SAC gives 5–6 hours from the hut. In late summer the crevasses and a big bergschrund below the saddle can make the route very difficult or impassable. Descend the same way; the couloir variant below the Doldenstock used in spring sees stonefall.