Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla
3,646 m
Switzerland
Also known as Aiguilles Rouges d’Arolla, ეგიუი-რუჟ-დ’აროლა, +1Also known as
Aiguilles Rouges d’Arolla · ეგიუი-რუჟ-დ’აროლა · Aiguilles Rouges
- Elevation
- 3,646 m
- Prominence
- 791 m
- Difficulty
- 6/10
- Alpine climb
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Sources differ: ZS+/4a (SAC Walliser Alpen Auswahlführer 2015) · IV+ (Camptocamp (single moves on the Central summit and the third gendarme of the S summit)) · AD (Camptocamp, North summit by the N ridge only; SAC guide 2016, east side)
Hut walk from Arolla to the Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges (2,810 m), then a short glacier approach to a col north of the North summit and an exposed ridge climb (III, moves of IV) over the North summit to the Central summit, the highest point. Most parties continue over the gendarmes of the South summit; the full traverse is a long day of moving together on often brittle rock.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 11.5 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,787 m
- −114 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,646 m
- Time Up
- 7h 37m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 5h 23m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Arolla (about 2,000 m) a gently rising path leads north-west past the Remointse de Pra Gra to the Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges (2,810 m), about 2½ hours and 800 m; the alternative from La Gouille via the Lac Bleu takes 2½–3 hours. From the hut head west up the moraine to the upper Glacier des Aiguilles Rouges, joining it level with the north end of a small lake, and go west to the obvious col (about 3,440 m) north of the North summit, about 1½ hours. Follow the N ridge, keeping slightly left of the crest, to the North summit (3,594 m): III with a few moves of IV, some bolts, rock not always sound. Downclimb (III) or abseil to the Col N, cross a very sharp first gendarme and climb a grey, loose gully, where the parties behind are exposed to stonefall, then regain the crest by a large overhanging block (IV+, one move) and a last step of III+ to the Central summit (3,646 m). The hut gives about 4 hours for the North and Central summits. The full traverse continues easily to the Col S (3,457 m), over about 15 gendarmes in better rock to the South summit (3,584 m; one physical move of IV+ on the third gendarme), then along the ridge to the Col Slingsby and below the west side towards the Col des Ignes and back to the hut: 8–10 hours in all according to the hut and Camptocamp. Escape options along the 2 km ridge are almost non-existent, so do not start in doubtful weather.
Start
Arolla1,972 m
- Train to Sion, PostBus to Les Haudères and Arolla (the La Gouille stop serves the Lac Bleu approach).
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Arolla → Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges | 7.6 | 844 | 8 | 3h 47m |
| 2 | Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges → Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla | 3.9 | 944 | 106 | 3h 51m |
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Arolla1,972 m
- Hut: Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges2,810 m
- Col: Col north of the North summit3,406 m
- Summit: Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla3,646 m
Central summit, the highest point
Key Passages
- Glacier des Aiguilles Rouges approach
- N ridge of the North summit (III, moves of IV)
- Sharp gendarme and loose grey gully after the Col N
- Overhanging block (IV+) below the Central summit
- Gendarmes between the Col S and the South summit (full traverse)
Equipment
0/8 packedDownloads
Route confidence 75%Overview
A jagged 3,646 m ridge of three summits above Arolla, between the Val d'Arolla and the Val des Dix. The N–S traverse from the Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges (AD+, IV) is the classic: 2 km of exposed ridge on rock that is often brittle.
The Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla form a ridge of needles on the west side of the Val d'Arolla. From south to north: the Col Slingsby, the South summit (about 3,584 m), the Col S, the Central summit (3,646 m, the highest point), the Col N and the North summit (about 3,594 m). To the south a large triangular rock wall rises to P. 3486; to the north the ridge splits near the Pointe de Darbonneire around the Glacier de Vouasson. Despite the name, the rock is not especially red, although the serpentine and gabbro glow at sunrise.
The usual way up is from the Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges on the east side: a short glacier approach, then ridge climbing of grade III with moves of IV. Many parties climb the North and Central summits and return; the full traverse to the South summit and Col Slingsby is longer and more serious, with about 15 gendarmes and few escape routes. The rock is generally somewhat brittle, protection is sparse and much of the ridge is climbed moving together.
The hut is also a base for easier objectives such as the Pointe de Vouasson (a straightforward glacier climb) and the Mont de l'Etoile, which makes it a good place for a mixed group.
Climbing Notes
You should be comfortable climbing III–IV in mountain boots on exposed, sometimes loose rock, moving together efficiently and abseiling; a guide is advisable if you lack that experience. Fitness for a 6–10 hour day from the hut is needed for the full traverse. Basic glacier skills are needed for the short approach.
Typical itinerary: Arolla to the Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges (about 2½ hours), then the North and Central summits (about 4 hours from the hut) or the full traverse (8–10 hours hut to hut) the next day. Climbing the North summit alone by its N ridge (AD, III) is a good introduction.
Wear a helmet: the gully below the Central summit sends stones onto the parties below. Do not start the full traverse in doubtful weather, as there are almost no escape routes once committed.
History
The North and Central summits were first climbed on 23 June 1870 by Henri Isler with the guide Joseph Gillioz, by the N ridge. The South summit was first climbed on 3 September 1887 by W. Cecil Slingsby, Arthur Macnamara and Harold Topham with Jean Maître; the Col Slingsby is named after Slingsby. The first N–S traverse is credited to M. Chadwick with the guides Bernet and Christian Jossi on 28 June 1897. The Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges was built in 1948 and enlarged in 1975 and 1991; the Maître family has looked after it since it opened.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Not advisable
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Not advisable
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; ridge snowbound
- Feb
- Winter; hut used for ski tours
- Mar
- Ski-touring season at the hut; ridge not in condition
- Apr
- Ski touring; ridge snowbound
- May
- Snow on the ridge
- Jun
- Snow lingers on the ridge and cols
- Jul
- Main season
- Aug
- Main season; dry rock
- Sep
- Often stable; cold mornings
- Oct
- Early snow; short days
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges (Association de la Cabane des Aiguilles-Rouges): reservation form on aiguillesrouges.ch; phone +41 27 283 16 49, aiguillesrouges@bluewin.ch.
- Fees
- Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges overnight fee (see the hut's tariff page)
- Getting There
Arolla (Val d'Hérens); Les Haudères and Evolène
Sion (SIR) for limited flights; Geneva (GVA)
- Train to Sion, then PostBus via Evolène and Les Haudères to Arolla, or to La Gouille for the Lac Bleu approach
- By car: motorway exit Sion-Est, then Vex – Evolène – Les Haudères – Arolla
Hazards
- Exposure
- Rockfall
- Weather
- Glacier
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,810 m
Cabane des Aiguilles RougesHutStaffed
70 beds · Staffed in the ski-touring season and in summer; a well-equipped winter room (wood stove) otherwise. Current dates not confirmed
Book Cabane des Aiguilles RougesWebsite of Cabane des Aiguilles Rouges