Birnhorn
2,634 m
Austria
- Elevation
- 2,634 m
- Prominence
- 1,665 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Aug–Sep
- Routes
- 2
Routes
2Sources differ: VF A (official signpost at the route (called an understatement in klettersteig.de comments)) · 2.5/B (klettersteig.de overall rating)
The easiest way up the highest peak of the Leoganger Steinberge: a steep hut path from Ullach to the Passauer Hütte (2,051 m), then across the Hochgrub karst to a short B-grade via ferrata below the Kuchelnieder notch (2,437 m) and cabled ledges on the west side to the summit. About 1,750 m of ascent; best split over two days.
About 56% of this line is approximate (no mapped trail; drawn from the terrain). Check it against a map before relying on it.
Why? 6 check notes
- 55% approximate geometry
- DIN time up 8.03 h vs published 5.0 h (+61%)
- DIN time down 5.69 h vs published 3.5 h (+63%)
- Parkplatz Ullachtal → Passauer Hütte: dem (detour, 4.1 km)
- unresolved waypoints: Hochtor, Hochgrub
- waypoints at the same position: Kuchelnieder = Kuchelnieder via ferrata
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 7.3 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,992 m
- −236 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 2,634 m
- Time Up
- 8h 02m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 5h 41m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the free Ullachtal car park north of Leogang (about 880 m) the hut path climbs through forest and dwarf pine to the Hochtor (about 1,920 m), then makes an exposed, partly cabled traverse below the west face of the Fahnenköpfl to the Passauer Hütte (2,051 m) above the Mittagsscharte. Allow 2½–3½ hours and about 1,200 m of ascent; sure-footedness is already needed here. Just beyond the hut the two summit routes split. For the Kuchelnieder keep right (north-west) across the Hochgrub cirque, climbing gently over karst and scree to the foot of the rock step below the notch. A via ferrata built around 2011 climbs the right side of the step, about 60–100 m of height and 200 m long, graded B although the sign says A; it replaced an older, rockfall-prone line on the left, which should not be used. Above the cable come about 40–60 m of very steep, unprotected and exposed ground to the Kuchelnieder (2,437 m), the notch between the Birnhorn and Kuchelhorn. From the notch, steps and broad, scree-covered ledges, almost entirely cabled (A to A/B), rise south along the west side of the Birnhorn to the south-west ridge, which leads north-east to the summit cross. About 2–2½ hours and 600 m from the hut. Descend the same way (about 1½ hours to the hut): the hut advises against descending the Hofersteig because of rockfall onto parties below. The upper ledges are steep and slippery on the way down, and wet rock, ice or old snow make the whole route considerably harder. The karst between hut and notch is confusing in fog; follow the paint marks.
Start
Parkplatz Ullachtal878 m
- Train to Leogang (Salzburg–Tyrol line via Saalfelden), then about 4 km by road to Ullach; check local buses or taxi.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Parkplatz Ullachtal → Passauer Hütte | 4.1 | 1,274 | 106 | 4h 58m |
| 2 | Passauer Hütte → Birnhorn | 3.3 | 718 | 129 | 3h 04m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Parkplatz Ullachtal878 m
- Hut: Passauer Hütte2,046 m
- Crux: Kuchelnieder via ferrata2,433 m
Short B-grade via ferrata on the right side of the rock step, then steep unprotected ground to the notch
- Col: Kuchelnieder2,433 m
not on route line
- Summit: Birnhorn2,634 m
Key Passages
- Exposed, cabled traverse below the Fahnenköpfl on the hut path
- Kuchelnieder via ferrata (B)
- Steep, unprotected ground below the Kuchelnieder notch
- Cabled ledges on the west side to the south-west ridge
Equipment
0/8 packedDownloads
Route confidence 62%Overview
The highest peak of the Leoganger Steinberge (2,634 m), a limestone massif rising 1,800 m above Leogang. Both routes from the Passauer Hütte are demanding alpine scrambles: a short via ferrata and cabled ledges by the Kuchelnieder, or the largely unprotected south face via the Melkerloch.
The Birnhorn is the high point of the Leoganger Steinberge, the southern of the two limestone massifs between the Saalach valley and Leogang in the Salzburg Pinzgau. Its steep southern walls rise directly above the Leogang valley, and with a prominence of about 1,665 m it is among the most prominent summits of the Eastern Alps.
There is no walking route to the top. From the German Alpine Club's Passauer Hütte (2,051 m), set in a notch on the southern rim of the massif, two marked routes lead up: the Hofersteig through the south face via the Melkerloch rock window, the classic line with ledges and short unprotected steps; and the easier normal route via the Kuchelnieder, with a short via ferrata and cabled ledges. The usual round goes up one and down the other, always descending by the Kuchelnieder.
The summit looks across the Loferer Steinberge and the Steinernes Meer, and south over the green Pinzgau grass mountains to the glaciers of the Hohe Tauern. The interior of the massif is rough karst, and the walls around the hut also hold the Leoganger via ferratas and hard multi-pitch climbs such as the Pinzgawurm.
Climbing Notes
Expect about 1,750 m of ascent from Ullach: 2½–3½ hours to the Passauer Hütte and another 2–2½ hours to the summit. Most parties spend a night at the hut. Both summit routes are graded around T5: the Kuchelnieder route has a via ferrata section officially signed A but generally rated B, followed by steep unprotected ground and cabled ledges; the Hofersteig is mostly unprotected scrambling at grade I to I+. Experience on exposed limestone, a helmet and, for many, a via ferrata set are needed; even the hut path has an exposed, cabled traverse.
Go only in stable, dry weather. Wet rock, ice and old snow make both routes considerably harder; snowfields can linger at the start of the Hofersteig well into summer, so ask the hut warden about conditions. Do not descend the Hofersteig (stonefall onto parties below). The karst is confusing in fog. The Hochzint (2,246 m) near the hut is a shorter alternative for those who find the Birnhorn too much.
Season
Best Aug–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Not advisable
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Good
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter conditions; not a normal objective
- Feb
- Winter
- Mar
- Winter
- Apr
- Snow and avalanche risk
- May
- Snow on the routes; hut closed
- Jun
- Hut opens mid-June (13 or 18 June in 2026); old snow on the routes
- Jul
- Snowfields at the start of the Hofersteig can last into July; thunderstorms
- Aug
- Best season
- Sep
- Best season; hut closes late September (27 September in 2026)
- Oct
- Hut closed; possible in a dry autumn for self-sufficient parties, risk of early snow and ice
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Passauer Hütte: book online via hut-reservation.org (hut 232) or by phone (+43 680 5072624).
- Fees
- Hut overnight fees, with discounts and priority for Alpine Club members; cash preferred
- Rules
- Do not descend the Hofersteig (south face): the hut asks parties to descend via the Kuchelnieder to avoid stonefall onto climbers below
- Getting There
Leogang (also Saalfelden)
Salzburg Airport (SZG)
- Train to Leogang or Leogang-Steinberge (Salzburg–Tyrol line), then by road north to Ullach
- Car: B164 Saalfelden–Hochfilzen to Leogang, turn north towards Ullach following signs for the Passauer Hütte; free Ullachtal car park about 1.5 km beyond Leogang-Steinberge station
- Alternative approach from Diesbach/Weißbach in the Saalach valley (about 4½ h to the hut); a hiking taxi to Niedergrub roughly halves it
Hazards
- Exposure
- Rockfall
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,051 m
Passauer HütteHutStaffedBooking required
47 beds · Mid-June to late September (18 June – 27 September 2026 per the hut info page)