Balaïtous
3,144 m
France, Spain
Also known as Pico os Moros, Pic du Balaïtous, +4Also known as
Pico os Moros · Pic du Balaïtous · Pico Balaitús · Vathleitosa · Balaitus · Pic Balaïtous
- Elevation
- 3,144 m
- Prominence
- 849 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Sep
- Routes
- 2
Routes
2Sources differ: F+ (Camptocamp (Spanish topo of the descent); tocandoelcielo.blog)
The French normal route: from the road end at the Porte d'Arrens (1,470 m) past the Lac de Suyen to the Refuge de Larribet (2,072 m), over the border ridge at the Brèche des Ciseaux to the Abri Michaud, then the Grande Diagonale, a broad ledge slanting across the W face, and easy scrambling (II) to the summit plateau. About 1,700–1,800 m of ascent; usually two days.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 12.0 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +2,092 m
- −423 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,144 m
- Time Up
- 9h 19m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 7h 06m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the car park at the end of the road above Arrens-Marsous (Porte d'Arrens / Plan d'Aste, about 1,470 m, beside the former Maison du Parc), follow the forest path to the Lac de Suyen, pass it on the left and continue south along the valley to the Cabane de Doumblas (1,563 m). Turn right (west-south-west), pass the Toue du Larribet and climb the last step to the Refuge de Larribet (2,072 m): 600 m, about 2–2½ hours. From the refuge, cross the Brèche de la Garenère to the Batcrabère lakes and continue south to the Micoulaou lakes, leaving the path to the Port du Lavedan on the right. Cross the frontier ridge either by the Col Noir, the traditional line but now unpleasant on its north side since the glacier's retreat (icy old snow early in the season, very unstable sand and stones later), or slightly further west by the Brèche des Ciseaux, easier but a short detour. On the Spanish side pass the huge Rocher du Déjeuner and the Abri Michaud (a walled rock shelter for 4–5 people, about 2,680–2,700 m), then climb a steepish couloir back to the large scree slope on the frontier ridge. Find the cairns marking the start of the Grande Diagonale (going too far right up the scree leads to the Packe–Russell west ridge), drop slightly onto the broad ledge and follow it a long way up to near its end at the Brèche des Isards. It is easy when free of snow but impressive. From there climb south about 100 m, choosing between many lines (moves of II, several variants of II–III), bearing left to the broad summit plateau. About 3¾–4½ hours from the refuge. Descend the same way, about 5 hours to the car park. Many parties are on the ledge in summer and stonefall caused by people above is the main hazard. The Grande Diagonale must be completely free of snow to be done safely without special gear.
Start
Porte d'Arrens1,475 m
- Train to Lourdes, bus to Argelès-Gazost; no public transport to the Porte d'Arrens road end was found.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Porte d'Arrens → Refuge de Larribet | 5.5 | 595 | 11 | 2h 41m |
| 2 | Refuge de Larribet → Balaïtous | 6.5 | 1,497 | 412 | 6h 38m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Porte d'Arrens1,475 m
Road-end car park, also called Plan d'Aste, next to the former Maison du Parc
- Feature: Lac de Suyen1,539 m
- Waypoint: Cabane de Doumblas1,568 m
- Hut: Refuge de Larribet2,062 m
- Feature: Lacs de Batcrabère2,176 m
- Col: Brèche des Ciseaux2,611 m
Preferred over the Col Noir (42.8392, -0.2993), whose north side is now loose
- Bivouac: Cueva André Michaud2,665 m
- Col: Brèche des Isards3,017 m
Near the upper end of the Grande Diagonale
- Summit: Balaïtous3,144 m
Key Passages
- Brèche des Ciseaux (or the loose Col Noir) on the frontier ridge
- Grande Diagonale ledge across the W face
- Final 100 m of scrambling (II) from the Brèche des Isards to the summit plateau
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 80%Overview
A granite 3,144 m summit on the France–Spain border between the Val d'Azun and the Tena valley, the westernmost 3,000 m peak of the Pyrenees. Its normal route, the Grande Diagonale, is a long T5 scramble along a ledge across the west face, usually done over two days from the Refuge de Larribet.
The Balaïtous (Balaitús or Pico os Moros in Spain) is the first big peak of the High Pyrenees coming from the Atlantic, a massif of dark granite on the frontier between the Hautes-Pyrénées and the Alto Gállego in Aragon. It rises about 1,500 m above the surrounding valleys on every side, and none of its routes is easy. The north side holds the small Las Néous glacier, and the summit is ringed by sharp ridges: the Crête du Diable, the Costerillou ridge and the Packe–Russell west ridge, all classic rock climbs.
The usual way up from France starts at the road end above Arrens-Marsous in the Parc national des Pyrénées and spends the night at the Refuge de Larribet. From there the route crosses the frontier ridge and follows the Grande Diagonale, a wide natural ledge slanting up the west face, to an easy final scramble. From Spain, walkers start at La Sarra above Sallent de Gállego and reach the same ledge via the Arriel lakes, or climb the steeper Brecha Latour from the Refugio de Respomuso.
The Grande Diagonale looks far more serious than it is in dry summer conditions, but it is crowded on fine weekends and stonefall from people above is the main danger. The views take in the Vignemale, the Pic du Midi d'Ossau and a sea of granite lakes.
Climbing Notes
Allow two days: about 2–2½ hours from the Porte d'Arrens to the Refuge de Larribet, then about 4 hours from the refuge to the summit and 5 hours back to the car. In total about 1,700–2,100 m of ascent and 21–22 km. Fitness for a long day, sure-footedness on loose scree and exposed ledges, and easy scrambling (II) are needed; a helmet is essential. Camptocamp grades the route T5 / F.
Go only when the Grande Diagonale is completely free of snow, typically from July to early October. The Col Noir keeps a late icy snowfield; the Brèche des Ciseaux, slightly further west, is now the better crossing of the frontier ridge. In early season or after snowfall, crampons and an ice axe are needed and the ledge becomes a mountaineering route. Start early to beat both the crowds on the ledge and afternoon thunderstorms, and keep clear of parties directly above.
History
The first ascent was made on 8 August 1825 by the French geodesists Peytier and Hossard during survey work. Charles Packe made the second ascent in 1864. The Brecha Latour route was first climbed on 13 August 1873 by Hubert Durand and Clément Latour. The Grande Diagonale was probably used before 1877; its first dated passage, in descent, was on 19 August 1881 by Paul Labrouche and Jean-Marie Sarrettes.
Season
Best Jul–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Not advisable
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter mountaineering and ski touring only
- Feb
- Winter mountaineering and ski touring only
- Mar
- Ski touring via the Las Néous couloirs for experienced parties
- Apr
- Ski touring; Larribet open some weekends
- May
- Snow on the ledge; Larribet staffed from mid-May (14 May in 2026)
- Jun
- Snow often remains on the Grande Diagonale and Col Noir
- Jul
- Main season once snow-free; crowded at weekends; afternoon storms
- Aug
- Main season
- Sep
- Often stable weather, fewer people
- Oct
- Larribet staffed until mid-October (18 October in 2026); early snow possible
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Refuge de Larribet (FFCAM): book online on the refuge website or by phone (+33 9 88 66 61 22). Refugio de Respomuso: book by phone (+34 974 337 556) or online.
- Rules
- The French approach (Val d'Azun, Refuge de Larribet) lies in the Parc national des Pyrénées, whose regulations apply
- Getting There
Arrens-Marsous (France); Sallent de Gállego (Spain)
Tarbes–Lourdes–Pyrénées (LDE); Pau (PUF)
- France: from Argelès-Gazost via Arrens-Marsous and the D105 past the Lac du Tech to the road-end car park at the Porte d'Arrens (about 1,470 m)
- Spain: from Sallent de Gállego to the road end at the La Sarra reservoir (about 1,440 m)
- Trains to Lourdes and buses to Argelès-Gazost; buses from Jaca or Sabiñánigo to Sallent de Gállego; no public transport to either trailhead was found
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
- Glacier
Huts & Shelters
3- 2,072 m
Refuge de LarribetHutStaffedBooking required
60 beds · Staffed continuously 14 May – 18 October 2026, plus some early-May weekends; unstaffed winter room with 19 beds
- 2,220 m
Refugio de RespomusoRefugeStaffed
90 beds · Staffed year-round (avalanche-protected since 2009)
- 2,680 m
Cueva André MichaudBivouacUnstaffed
Year-round rock shelter walled with stones, 3–5 places