Zuc dal Bor
2,195 m
Italy
Also known as Zuc dal Bôr, Zuc del BorAlso known as
Zuc dal Bôr · Zuc del Bor
- Elevation
- 2,195 m
- Prominence
- 1,112 m
- Difficulty
- 6/10
- Alpine climb
- Best Season
- Sep–Oct
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Approximate line — not for navigation
An automated check found that parts of this line could not be matched to mapped trails, so it may stray far from the real route. Use it for planning only, with a map and a guidebook.
Why? 4 check notes
- danger scan: Bivacco Bianchi → Zuc dal Bor: connector line 42 m above the last hut/bivouac
- last routed vertex 42 m from the summit
- DIN time down 3.92 h vs published 2.5 h (+57%)
- unresolved waypoints: North ridge (Chiavals–Zuc dal Bor), Summit tower pitch
Sources differ: EE - AR - III+ - AD- (VieNormali.it) · Difficult (III+) (Outdooractive / Alpenverein Hermagor)
An old military path from the Val Alba road (about 1,050 m) climbs to Bivacco Bianchi (1,712 m), then a steep marked trace gains the ridge from Monte Chiavals, followed south for about an hour on exposed grass and rock (II). The summit tower is a 30 m pitch of III/III+ on bolted slabs, with an abseil descent. About 1,200 m, 4 h up; rope required.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- ≈ 6.6 km
- one way
- Ascent
- ≈ +1,298 m
- −149 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 2,195 m
- Time Up
- ≈ 5h 27m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- ≈ 3h 55m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Moggio Udinese cross the Fella towards Pradis and turn into Val Alba; a steep, narrow paved lane ends at a small car park at about 1,040–1,050 m by a no-entry sign. Path 450 drops through beech forest to cross the Rio Alba (about 925 m), then path 428, an old military mule track, climbs steeply past the junction for Rifugio Vualt (about 1,200 m), through dwarf pine and across a ledge to the shelf of the former Casera Chiavals and Bivacco Bianchi (1,712 m), about 1¾–2 hours. Water is found a little below the bivouac by the path. Go a few metres down to the signed junction, follow path 425 south-east for about 150 m, then turn left at a 'Zuc' sign onto a steep, red-yellow marked trace: grass, a short gully with grade I rock steps, and more grass to the ridge between Monte Chiavals and the Zuc dal Bor (about 30 minutes). Follow the ridge south for 45 minutes to an hour, sometimes on the very exposed crest, sometimes on steep grassy ledges where a slip would be serious and morning frost makes things slippery, including a down-climb into a narrow notch (II). At a wooden 'Zuc' sign below the summit tower, climb a steep scree gully (a fixed rope helps with the step at the top) to the foot of the tower. The original protected line on the south-east side of the summit was destroyed by rockfall, and the ascent now takes the south-west side: a 30 m pitch of leaning slabs and a short dihedral at III/III+ with bolts, followed by a broken chimney (II) and scree to the summit cross and Madonna. Abseil from the bolted belay (one 60 m rope in one go, or two 30 m abseils to avoid the loose scree). Return by the ascent route (about 2½ hours), or traverse south under the summit and descend a very steep path to path 425 and Forcella Fondaris for a longer loop (10–12 hours, about 1,650 m in all).
Start
Val Alba car park1,045 m
- Train to Carnia station, then bus towards Moggio Udinese and the Val Aupa / Pradis; the final lane into Val Alba has no service.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Val Alba car park → Zuc dal Bor | 6.6 | 1,298 | 149 | 5h 27m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Val Alba car park1,045 m
- Bivouac: Bivacco Bianchi1,705 m
- Summit: Zuc dal Bor2,195 m
Key Passages
- Old military path to Bivacco Bianchi
- Exposed grass ledges and II notch on the north ridge
- Scree gully with fixed rope below the summit tower
- 30 m III/III+ slab pitch on the south-west side of the summit tower
- Abseil from the summit tower
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 65%Overview
A wild, little-visited limestone peak (2,195 m) above the Fella valley between Moggio Udinese and Dogna. Its normal route is a long, exposed mountain walk to a summit tower that needs a rope: a 30 m pitch of III/III+ and an abseil.
The Zuc dal Bor is the highest summit of the rugged massif between Val Aupa, Val Alba and the Fella valley (Canal del Ferro), in the southernmost rock groups of the Carnic Alps facing the Sernio–Grauzaria group across Val Aupa. Its south side, cut by the gorges of the Alba-Intralba and Simon streams, is among the roughest terrain in the Friulian mountains; the north side holds the old pastures of Casera Chiavals and the small Bivacco Bianchi.
The normal route is mostly a hike, but a demanding one: an old military path to the bivouac, then a steep marked trace to the ridge from Monte Chiavals and an exposed ridge of grass ledges and rock steps (II). The summit itself is a tower whose old protected line was destroyed by rockfall; the current line is a bolted 30 m pitch of III/III+ on the south-west side, descended by abseil.
This is a peak for experienced mountain walkers who can climb and abseil, or who go with someone who can. It is quiet, remote in feel, waterless above the bivouac, and the steep grass demands care in wet or frosty conditions.
Climbing Notes
Plan on a long day of about 1,200 m of ascent: 4 hours up and 2½ hours down by the same way, or 10–12 hours for the loop via Forcella Fondaris. You need to be steady on exposed grass and grade II rock unroped, and at least one member of the party must be able to lead a bolted III/III+ pitch and set up an abseil. Carry a 60 m rope, harness, a few quickdraws and a helmet. Bivacco Bianchi (1,712 m) makes it possible to split the trip or start very early.
Avoid hot days (the upper route faces south and there is no water above the bivouac) and wet or frosty mornings, when the grass ledges become dangerous. The most recent detailed route information found dates from 2014, so check the condition of the anchors and the fixed rope with CAI Moggio Udinese before going.
History
The first ascent was made on 5 September 1879 by Giacomo di Brazzà, Cesare and Guido Mantica, the shepherd Davide Moretti and Attilio Pecile, by the south couloir; Mantica described it in the Cronaca of the Società Alpina Friulana. The second known ascent, by the same line, was made by a large party with the guides Francesco Marcon, Mattia Martina and Ignazio Piussi on 7 September 1890. Julius Kugy and Jože Komac climbed the north-north-west ridge at the end of July 1899, traversing from Monte Chiavals.
Season
Best Sep–Oct- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Not advisable
- May: Possible
- June: Good
- July: Good
- August: Good
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Best (best window)
- November: Possible
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; snow on steep grass, not advisable
- Feb
- Winter conditions
- Mar
- Winter conditions
- Apr
- Snow on the ridge
- May
- Possible late in the month if snow-free; check for old snow in gullies
- Jun
- Long days; start early
- Jul
- Can be very hot on the south-facing upper route; thunderstorms
- Aug
- Hot; carry plenty of water
- Sep
- Best: cooler, stable weather
- Oct
- Good in dry weather; watch for morning frost on the grass
- Nov
- Possible in dry, snow-free autumns; short days
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Bivacco Bianchi is an unstaffed bivouac; no booking.
- Rules
- Val Alba is a regional nature reserve (Riserva naturale regionale della Val Alba); usual reserve rules apply
- The lane into Val Alba ends at a no-entry sign; park in the small lay-by before it
- Getting There
Moggio Udinese
Trieste (TRS) or Venice Marco Polo (VCE)
- By car: SS 13 or the A23 motorway to Moggio Udinese, across the Fella on the SP 112 towards Pradis, then right into Val Alba to the small car park at the end of the paved lane
- By public transport: train to Carnia station, then bus into the Val Aupa; the last few kilometres to the trailhead are not served
Hazards
- Exposure
- Rockfall
- Weather
- Remoteness
Huts & Shelters
1- 1,712 m
Bivacco BianchiBivouacUnstaffed