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Italy

Also known as Zuc dal Bôr, Zuc del Bor

Zuc dal Bôr · Zuc del Bor

Elevation
2,195 m
Prominence
1,112 m
Difficulty
6/10
Alpine climb
Best Season
Sep–Oct
Routes
1

Routes

1
3D Preview

Approximate line — not for navigation

An automated check found that parts of this line could not be matched to mapped trails, so it may stray far from the real route. Use it for planning only, with a map and a guidebook.

Why? 4 check notes
  • danger scan: Bivacco Bianchi → Zuc dal Bor: connector line 42 m above the last hut/bivouac
  • last routed vertex 42 m from the summit
  • DIN time down 3.92 h vs published 2.5 h (+57%)
  • unresolved waypoints: North ridge (Chiavals–Zuc dal Bor), Summit tower pitch
AlpineAD-UIAAIII+SACT5Rock ridgeNormal route

Sources differ: EE - AR - III+ - AD- (VieNormali.it) · Difficult (III+) (Outdooractive / Alpenverein Hermagor)

An old military path from the Val Alba road (about 1,050 m) climbs to Bivacco Bianchi (1,712 m), then a steep marked trace gains the ridge from Monte Chiavals, followed south for about an hour on exposed grass and rock (II). The summit tower is a 30 m pitch of III/III+ on bolted slabs, with an abseil descent. About 1,200 m, 4 h up; rope required.

Elevation Profile

approximate line
1,0001,5002,0002,5000 km123456Bivacco BianchiZuc dal Bor
Distance
≈ 6.6 km
one way
Ascent
≈ +1,298 m
−149 m lost on the way up
High Point
2,195 m
Time Up
≈ 5h 27m
DIN 33466
Time Down
≈ 3h 55m
DIN 33466 · same way back

From Moggio Udinese cross the Fella towards Pradis and turn into Val Alba; a steep, narrow paved lane ends at a small car park at about 1,040–1,050 m by a no-entry sign. Path 450 drops through beech forest to cross the Rio Alba (about 925 m), then path 428, an old military mule track, climbs steeply past the junction for Rifugio Vualt (about 1,200 m), through dwarf pine and across a ledge to the shelf of the former Casera Chiavals and Bivacco Bianchi (1,712 m), about 1¾–2 hours. Water is found a little below the bivouac by the path. Go a few metres down to the signed junction, follow path 425 south-east for about 150 m, then turn left at a 'Zuc' sign onto a steep, red-yellow marked trace: grass, a short gully with grade I rock steps, and more grass to the ridge between Monte Chiavals and the Zuc dal Bor (about 30 minutes). Follow the ridge south for 45 minutes to an hour, sometimes on the very exposed crest, sometimes on steep grassy ledges where a slip would be serious and morning frost makes things slippery, including a down-climb into a narrow notch (II). At a wooden 'Zuc' sign below the summit tower, climb a steep scree gully (a fixed rope helps with the step at the top) to the foot of the tower. The original protected line on the south-east side of the summit was destroyed by rockfall, and the ascent now takes the south-west side: a 30 m pitch of leaning slabs and a short dihedral at III/III+ with bolts, followed by a broken chimney (II) and scree to the summit cross and Madonna. Abseil from the bolted belay (one 60 m rope in one go, or two 30 m abseils to avoid the loose scree). Return by the ascent route (about 2½ hours), or traverse south under the summit and descend a very steep path to path 425 and Forcella Fondaris for a longer loop (10–12 hours, about 1,650 m in all).

Start

Val Alba car park1,045 m

  • Train to Carnia station, then bus towards Moggio Udinese and the Val Aupa / Pradis; the final lane into Val Alba has no service.
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Val Alba car park → Zuc dal Bor6.61,2981495h 27m

Waypoints

  1. Parking:
    Val Alba car park1,045 m
  2. Bivouac:
    Bivacco Bianchi1,705 m
  3. Summit:
    Zuc dal Bor2,195 m

Key Passages

  • Old military path to Bivacco Bianchi
  • Exposed grass ledges and II notch on the north ridge
  • Scree gully with fixed rope below the summit tower
  • 30 m III/III+ slab pitch on the south-west side of the summit tower
  • Abseil from the summit tower

Equipment

0/7 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Navigation
Other

Downloads

Route confidence 65%

Overview

A wild, little-visited limestone peak (2,195 m) above the Fella valley between Moggio Udinese and Dogna. Its normal route is a long, exposed mountain walk to a summit tower that needs a rope: a 30 m pitch of III/III+ and an abseil.

The Zuc dal Bor is the highest summit of the rugged massif between Val Aupa, Val Alba and the Fella valley (Canal del Ferro), in the southernmost rock groups of the Carnic Alps facing the Sernio–Grauzaria group across Val Aupa. Its south side, cut by the gorges of the Alba-Intralba and Simon streams, is among the roughest terrain in the Friulian mountains; the north side holds the old pastures of Casera Chiavals and the small Bivacco Bianchi.

The normal route is mostly a hike, but a demanding one: an old military path to the bivouac, then a steep marked trace to the ridge from Monte Chiavals and an exposed ridge of grass ledges and rock steps (II). The summit itself is a tower whose old protected line was destroyed by rockfall; the current line is a bolted 30 m pitch of III/III+ on the south-west side, descended by abseil.

This is a peak for experienced mountain walkers who can climb and abseil, or who go with someone who can. It is quiet, remote in feel, waterless above the bivouac, and the steep grass demands care in wet or frosty conditions.

Climbing Notes

Plan on a long day of about 1,200 m of ascent: 4 hours up and 2½ hours down by the same way, or 10–12 hours for the loop via Forcella Fondaris. You need to be steady on exposed grass and grade II rock unroped, and at least one member of the party must be able to lead a bolted III/III+ pitch and set up an abseil. Carry a 60 m rope, harness, a few quickdraws and a helmet. Bivacco Bianchi (1,712 m) makes it possible to split the trip or start very early.

Avoid hot days (the upper route faces south and there is no water above the bivouac) and wet or frosty mornings, when the grass ledges become dangerous. The most recent detailed route information found dates from 2014, so check the condition of the anchors and the fixed rope with CAI Moggio Udinese before going.

History

The first ascent was made on 5 September 1879 by Giacomo di Brazzà, Cesare and Guido Mantica, the shepherd Davide Moretti and Attilio Pecile, by the south couloir; Mantica described it in the Cronaca of the Società Alpina Friulana. The second known ascent, by the same line, was made by a large party with the guides Francesco Marcon, Mattia Martina and Ignazio Piussi on 7 September 1890. Julius Kugy and Jože Komac climbed the north-north-west ridge at the end of July 1899, traversing from Monte Chiavals.


Season

Best Sep–Oct
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Not advisable
  4. April: Not advisable
  5. May: Possible
  6. June: Good
  7. July: Good
  8. August: Good
  9. September: Best (best window)
  10. October: Best (best window)
  11. November: Possible
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter; snow on steep grass, not advisable
Feb
Winter conditions
Mar
Winter conditions
Apr
Snow on the ridge
May
Possible late in the month if snow-free; check for old snow in gullies
Jun
Long days; start early
Jul
Can be very hot on the south-facing upper route; thunderstorms
Aug
Hot; carry plenty of water
Sep
Best: cooler, stable weather
Oct
Good in dry weather; watch for morning frost on the grass
Nov
Possible in dry, snow-free autumns; short days
Dec
Winter conditions

Access & Permits

Hut Booking
Bivacco Bianchi is an unstaffed bivouac; no booking.
Rules
  • Val Alba is a regional nature reserve (Riserva naturale regionale della Val Alba); usual reserve rules apply
  • The lane into Val Alba ends at a no-entry sign; park in the small lay-by before it
Getting There

Moggio Udinese

Trieste (TRS) or Venice Marco Polo (VCE)

  • By car: SS 13 or the A23 motorway to Moggio Udinese, across the Fella on the SP 112 towards Pradis, then right into Val Alba to the small car park at the end of the paved lane
  • By public transport: train to Carnia station, then bus into the Val Aupa; the last few kilometres to the trailhead are not served

Hazards

  • Exposure
  • Rockfall
  • Weather
  • Remoteness

Huts & Shelters

1
  • Bivacco BianchiBivouacUnstaffed

    1,712 m
Researched from 6 sourcesConfidence75%UnreviewedUpdated 8 Oct 2026
Sources & Caveats
  • merged with Wikidata/OSM names
  • Natural Earth 10m point-in-polygon + 300 m border buffer; Wikidata P17 countries whose border is within 5 km
  • Only two detailed route descriptions were found, from 2007 (VieNormali.it) and about 2014 (Outdooractive / Alpenverein Hermagor); the summit-tower pitch is described slightly differently (III slab plus a 15 m III+ dihedral vs. a single 30 m III+ slab pitch), probably reflecting changes after rockfall.; The Val Alba nature reserve status is from search results and regional landscape documents, not the reserve's own rules page.; Bivacco Bianchi capacity and its reported 2018 renovation were not confirmed from a primary source.; Bivacco Bianchi elevation: 1,712 m (route sources) vs. 1,732 m (OSM)
  • normalizeGrade of the easiest researched route
  • OSM agrees
  • coordinates: 1 osm-waypoint
  • Kirmse analysis gives 1115 m (raw GLO-30 1041 m)
  • P4552 chain
  • 99% OSM trail graph, 0% short gaps between OSM fragments, 0% DEM least-cost, 0% straight (approx)
  • elevation from copernicus_glo30