Sass de Mura

From the car park at Lago della Stua in Val Canzoi (about 660 m) take path 811 up through the woods in many zigzags to Passo Alvis (about 1,880 m) and descend 100 m to Rifugio Boz (1,718 m), about 2h30. (A shorter approach from Rifugio Fonteghi, 1,100 m, in Val Noana on the Primiero side takes about 1h30 by path 727.) From the hut go up to Malga Neva and follow traces into the wood to meet path 748; go left for a few metres, then turn right onto an indistinct path past a spring into the Cadin di Neva and up to Forcella Neva (2,148 m), with a view of the Pale di San Martino. From the col follow cairns right towards the walls, cross a deep notch a few metres high (II) and pick up the path along the west ledge (banca ovest). Follow it south almost to the edge leading round to the south ledge, where red arrows mark the start of the normal route on the west side of the edge. Move a few metres north along a ledge to the first 12 m wall (II+, abseil ring above). Cairns lead back south along ledges to an edge with a distinctive egg-shaped boulder; climb the crack behind it to a 15 m wall/chimney (II+/III, the hardest point; peg and sling above). Easier rock and steps around a yellowish wall lead to a 10 m slab (II) and onto the ridge; small steps of I–II lead to the West summit (2,522 m, large cairn). The main North-East summit (2,547 m) is reached along the narrow connecting ridge: cairned scree and broken rock, a notch reached at I–II, very exposed downclimbs and a ledge whose first move is over jutting rock, a slab (II) beside a tunnel between two towers and a short gully (I). Return the same way and descend the West summit route with three abseils of up to 30 m (some sources say all are 10 m or less). Rock is not perfect and the area is very quiet; most parties sleep at Rifugio Boz.