Punta Tersiva
3,515 m
Italy
Also known as Pointe TersiveAlso known as
Pointe Tersive
- Elevation
- 3,515 m
- Prominence
- 600 m
- Difficulty
- 4/10
- Alpine hike
- Best Season
- Jul–Sep
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1Approximate line — not for navigation
An automated check found that parts of this line could not be matched to mapped trails, so it may stray far from the real route. Use it for planning only, with a map and a guidebook.
Why? 1 check note
- unresolved waypoints: Ervillières
Sources differ: T3 (inalto.org) · EE/F (Italian scale) (CAI Chivasso)
A long, quiet walk-up: path 8 from Gimillan above Cogne through the remote Grauson valley to the Ervillières alp (2,519 m), cairns past a waterfall to the remnant Tessonet glacier, a tiring slope of loose scree (or the small glacier) to the Colle della Tersiva (about 3,310 m), then a broad ridge to the Madonna and cross on top. About 1,725 m and 6 hours up.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- ≈ 12.5 km
- one way
- Ascent
- ≈ +1,773 m
- start → summit
- High Point
- 3,515 m
- Time Up
- ≈ 7h 34m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- ≈ 5h 16m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the free car park at Gimillan (about 1,790 m) above Cogne, take path 8 from the fountain: it climbs the meadows behind the village, traverses into the Vallone del Grauson, drops to a bridge (about 1,905–1,925 m) and climbs past the Alpe Pila to the old Grauson alps (Grauson Inferiore, 2,271 m). Keep right at the fork (left goes to upper Grauson, Rifugio Grauson and the Tentori bivouac), pass the Alpe Pralognan (2,418 m) and follow the long, almost flat valley floor to the Ervillières alp (2,519 m), about 2h30. Leave path 8 and climb on faint tracks left of the buildings; after about 15 minutes cairns lead to a higher path that crosses pasture and a steep slope above a ravine with a waterfall to a debris plain at about 2,800 m below the remnant Tessonet glacier. Either cross the small glacier towards the col (crampons; boulders slide on the ice and the retreat has exposed a steep rock band), or, as most recent reports advise, keep left over moraine and scree under the Punta Tessonet to a stony shelf below the col. The last slope to the Colle della Tersiva (about 3,310 m) is steep, fine, loose scree and very tiring. From the col a broad ridge with several tracks leads in about 40 minutes to the summit, with a Madonna statue, cross and stone altar: about 3h30 from Ervillières and 6 hours from Gimillan. The ridge is exposed in places on friable ground and becomes a snow climb when heavily snow-covered. Descend the same way (about 4h30). The route can be split over two days by sleeping at Rifugio Grauson, about 2½–3 hours from Gimillan.
Start
Gimillan1,787 m
- Buses run from Aosta to Cogne; no public transport to Gimillan per inalto.org (about 3 km and 250 m above Cogne)
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Gimillan → Punta Tersiva | 12.5 | 1,773 | 45 | 7h 34m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Gimillan1,787 m
- Feature: Grauson Inferiore2,275 m
- Feature: Pralognan2,413 m
- Col: Colle della Tersiva3,321 m
- Summit: Punta Tersiva3,515 m
Key Passages
- Steep loose scree slope to the Colle della Tersiva
- Remnant Tessonet glacier (optional; usually bypassed on the left)
- Exposed, friable sections on the final ridge
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 80%Overview
An isolated five-ridged pyramid (3,515 m) at the head of the Grauson, Urtier and Clavalité valleys between Cogne and Fénis, known for one of the widest panoramas in the Aosta Valley. The normal route is a long but non-technical walk from Gimillan through the quiet Grauson valley, finishing on loose scree and a broad ridge.
Punta Tersiva (Pointe Tersive) stands alone at the meeting point of three valleys: the Grauson and Urtier valleys, which descend to Cogne, and the Vallone di Clavalité, which runs north to Fénis in the main Aosta Valley. Five ridges and faces give it a regular pyramid shape; the small Tersiva glacier clings to the north-east face and the remnant Tessonet glacier lies at the foot of the north-west face. The rock is poor, so the mountain has little appeal for climbers, but its isolated position makes the summit view exceptional, from Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn to Mont Blanc and the Gran Paradiso.
The normal route from Gimillan, a hamlet above Cogne, is a long day of about 1,725 m and 20 km through the Grauson valley, which is rich in water and usually empty of people. Difficulties are concentrated near the top: a tiring, loose scree slope to the Colle della Tersiva and an exposed but broad ridge on friable ground.
The summit carries a Madonna statue, a cross and a stone altar.
Climbing Notes
Fitness is the main requirement: about 1,725 m of ascent and 20 km round trip in a day, 6 hours up and 4½ down. Sure-footedness on loose, steep scree and some exposure on the final ridge are needed, but no climbing. Many parties split the trip by sleeping at Rifugio Grauson (about 2½–3 hours from Gimillan) and climbing the summit the next morning.
Early in the season (June–early July) snow covers the slope to the col and the ridge, and crampons and an ice axe are needed; late in summer the route is usually dry and the small Tessonet glacier can be avoided on the left. A helmet is sensible below the col. Altitude is moderate, but a stay of a night or two in Cogne helps. Start early: afternoon thunderstorms are common and the upper scree is unpleasant in the rain.
History
The first ascent was made on 23 August 1842 by Pierre Balthazar Chamonin and a student, probably by the west ridge. Jean-Antoine Carrel and Giuseppe Corona made a spring ascent on 17 April 1875, and Anna and Ellen Pigeon, with Daniel Ballay and Jean-Joseph Maquignaz, made the first known women's ascent on 10 August 1875. The south-east ridge was first climbed on 19 July 1872 and the north-north-west ridge in 1877 by Douglas Freshfield with François Devouassoud.
Season
Best Jul–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; ski mountaineering via the Grauson or Urtier valleys for experienced parties
- Feb
- Winter; avalanche risk
- Mar
- Spring ski-mountaineering season
- Apr
- Spring ski touring
- May
- Transitional snow
- Jun
- Snow on the upper slope and ridge; crampons needed
- Jul
- Usually good; snow patches below the col early in the month
- Aug
- Usually dry; afternoon thunderstorms
- Sep
- Quiet and stable; Rifugio Grauson open early September
- Oct
- Early snow and short days
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Rifugio Grauson: book directly with the hut for the two-day option (half board; sleeping-bag liner and slippers required).
- Getting There
Cogne
Turin (TRN)
- Car: A5 to Aosta Ovest, SR47 to Cogne (about 35 minutes), then up to Gimillan; free car park on the right of the road
- Bus: regional buses run from Aosta to Cogne; no public transport to Gimillan, about 3 km and 250 m above Cogne
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
- Remoteness
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,510 m
Rifugio GrausonHutStaffed
Summer (open in early September 2024 per CAI Chivasso); dates not confirmed