Piz Murtaröl

From the Ofenpass (Pass dal Fuorn, 2,149 m) on the Zernez–Müstair road, walk south over alpine pastures to the Döss dal Termel saddle (2,351 m) and descend about 300 m into the Val Mora. Near Alp Mora (2,084 m) a small wooden bridge crosses the Aua da Val Mora towards the Spinai meadows (otherwise a ford). Climb the meadows and pick up faint traces through the dwarf pines into the Val Murtaröl at about 2,100 m. There is only a narrow, unmarked trace in the valley. Follow it, first left of the stream bed and later on the right, past point 2,584 m; rock steps can be bypassed to the side. Above, tiring scree or old avalanche snow leads steeply to the summit ridge. Camptocamp's description heads for the broad saddle at about 3,058 m (probably the Fuorcla Murtaröl) and traverses east on ledges on the south side past point 3,174 m, with a short rock step down to the col before the summit; a hikr party climbed snow gullies directly to the ridge east of the summit. The last section below the ridge is very steep, loose scree and broken rock with some rockfall risk, and unpleasant in descent. Summit with cairn and pole. Descend the same way and re-climb the 300 m to the Döss dal Termel; allow about 8 hours in all. From Italy the same Val Murtaröl line is reached from the Passo di Fraele (1,952 m) along the dirt road and path past the Passo di Val Mora; most of the 7.3 km to the foot of the Val Murtaröl can be cycled.