Piz Lagrev
3,165 m
Switzerland
- Elevation
- 3,165 m
- Prominence
- 855 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Mar–Apr
- Routes
- 1
Routes
1A classic ski tour that is rarely done in summer: unmarked traces from Alp Güglia up the loose Gianda Polaschin to Lej Lagrev (2,719 m), a short but steep crossing of the small Vadret Lagrev to the weather station at P. 3085, then a long, airy ridge over P. 3109 (the ski summit) to the main top. About 1,000–1,100 m of ascent.
About 100% of this line is approximate (no mapped trail; drawn from the terrain). Check it against a map before relying on it.
Why? 4 check notes
- 100% approximate geometry
- low confidence 0.4
- Alp Güglia → Piz Lagrev: dem (snap_failed, 4.4 km)
- unresolved waypoints: Gianda Polaschin, Lej Lagrev, Vadret Lagrev, P. 3085 (weather station), P. 3109 (ski summit)
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 4.4 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,061 m
- −95 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,199 m
- Time Up
- 4h 16m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 2h 59m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Start from the large car park at Alp Güglia (about 2,200 m) on the Engadine side of the Julier pass road. Unofficial but well-trodden traces head south to a first rock step (P. 2372), cross a small plain and climb the Gianda Polaschin, a steep step of loose scree exposed to rockfall from the north-west face of Piz Polaschin; keep right (west) along the rock edge. Above, follow the stream and cairns to Lej Lagrev (2,719 m) and round the lake on its east side to the foot of the glacier at about 2,850 m. The Vadret Lagrev is a remnant glacier with few, visible crevasses, but steeper than it looks; stones fall onto its lower part from around P. 2963, so cross that section quickly. Climb in a wide left-hand curve to the ridge near P. 3085 (weather station). Do not follow the more interesting ridge heading south towards Piz Mez; instead go back a little and turn north-west along the connecting ridge to P. 3109, the usual ski summit. From there a long, nearly level and fairly exposed ridge, rarely tracked, leads in about 15–30 minutes to the main summit, marked by a wooden post. In winter the north side carries large cornices; keep slightly to the south (Engadine) side. Descend the same way. A 2017 summer ascent took 7 hours return for 1,090 m. In winter and spring it is a popular ski tour (skis usually left at P. 3109), but the steep slopes at 2,300–2,500 m and above the lake are avalanche-prone.
Start
Alp Güglia2,199 m
- Postauto St. Moritz – Silvaplana – Julier – Bivio to the 'Alp Güglia' stop.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alp Güglia → Piz Lagrev | 4.4 | 1,061 | 95 | 4h 16m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Alp Güglia2,199 m
- Summit: Piz Lagrev3,165 m
Key Passages
- Gianda Polaschin (loose scree, rockfall)
- Steep lower Vadret Lagrev with stonefall
- Ridge junction at P. 3085: turn north-west, not south towards Piz Mez
- Long exposed ridge from P. 3109 to the main summit
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 40%Overview
The broad, multi-topped high point (3,165 m) of the Lagrev group, rising above Lake Sils and the Julier pass. A classic ski tour from the Julier road; in summer a quiet, unmarked glacier-and-ridge ascent over boulder fields and a small remnant glacier.
Piz Lagrev is the highest summit of the southernmost subgroup of the Albula Alps, framed by three passes used since Roman times: the Julier to the north, the Maloja to the south and the Septimer to the west. From the Upper Engadine, especially across Lej da Segl, its long summit ridge with several tops above 3,100 m dominates the view, and steep drops separate it from its neighbours on the south side. With about 850 m of prominence it is a good viewpoint towards the Bernina and the Bregaglia.
The usual approach is from the Julier pass road on the north side: unmarked traces over scree and boulder fields to Lej Lagrev, a short crossing of the small Vadret Lagrev, and a long, airy ridge from the 3,109 m ski summit to the main top. It is mainly a ski tour, when snow covers the boulder fields; most ski parties stop at P. 3109. In summer few people go, and those who do find loose scree, rockfall below Piz Polaschin and on the lower glacier, and a remote ridge.
It suits experienced mountain walkers with crampon skills who want solitude rather than comfort. There is no hut on the route.
Climbing Notes
Requirements: sure-footedness on loose scree and boulders, crampon and ice-axe skills for a steep remnant glacier, a head for heights on the final ridge and good navigation, as the route is unmarked. A rope is useful on the glacier for less experienced parties. Allow about 7 hours return in summer.
Typical day: park at Alp Güglia on the Julier road (or take the Postauto), climb to Lej Lagrev and the glacier, gain the ridge at the P. 3085 weather station, turn north-west to P. 3109 and follow the ridge to the summit; return the same way. A longer traverse from Lake Sils over the summit to the Julier pass is possible for experienced parties (T5).
In winter and spring it is a classic ski tour of about 1,000 m with steep (35°), avalanche-prone slopes at 2,300–2,500 m and above the lake, and large cornices on the north side of the summit ridge. Check the avalanche bulletin.
Season
Best Mar–Apr- January: Possible
- February: Good
- March: Best (best window)
- April: Best (best window)
- May: Possible
- June: Not advisable
- July: Good
- August: Good
- September: Good
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Possible
- Jan
- Ski touring; north-facing, often powder; avalanche-prone steep slopes
- Feb
- Ski touring season
- Mar
- Classic ski-tour season
- Apr
- Spring ski touring
- May
- Late ski tours early in the month; then transitional snow
- Jun
- Melting snow over boulder fields
- Jul
- Summer ascent possible; steep glacier ice
- Aug
- Rockfall on scree and lower glacier
- Sep
- Stable weather; bare glacier
- Oct
- Possible until the first snow
- Nov
- Early winter; poor snow cover over boulders
- Dec
- Ski touring once snow cover is sufficient
Access & Permits
- Getting There
Silvaplana and Sils/Segl
Zurich (ZRH)
- Postauto Chur – Bivio – Julier – Silvaplana – St. Moritz to the 'Alp Güglia' stop
- By car: large car park at Alp Güglia on the Engadine side of the Julier pass road
Hazards
- Glacier
- Rockfall
- Avalanche
- Cornices
- Exposure
- Weather