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Piz Di Mezzodi

2,240 m

Italy

Also known as Monte Pizzon, Piz di Mezzodì

Monte Pizzon · Piz di Mezzodì

Elevation
2,240 m
Prominence
1,248 m
Difficulty
5/10
Easy alpine
Best Season
Sep–Oct
Routes
1

Routes

1
3D Preview
AlpineF+UIAAIISACT5ScrambleNormal route

Sources differ: EE - A - I - F+ (VieNormali.it) · EE (sections of I, one move of II) (Rampegoni (CAI))

A wild, partly marked ascent from the road pass of Forcella Franche (990 m) in the Agordino: steep path 875 through mountain pine to the Soracroda larch terrace, the lonely boulder bowls of the Busa del Contron and the Forcella dei Camorz, then a short gully with a grade II step onto the narrowing north-north-east ridge to the summit cross. About 1,250 m and 3½ hours up; no huts.

Elevation Profile

approximate line
5001,0001,5002,0002,5000 km1234Piz di Mezzodì
Distance
4.0 km
one way
Ascent
+1,275 m
start → summit
High Point
2,240 m
Time Up
4h 49m
DIN 33466
Time Down
3h 10m
DIN 33466 · same way back

Park at Forcella Franche (990 m), reached from south of Agordo through Rivamonte towards Gosaldo. CAI path 875 climbs south, steep and sunken in places but well maintained, through mountain pine beside a large landslide, past a rock plinth and a cave, and over a short awkward traverse to the larch-covered terrace of Soracroda. Keep left at the junction (right goes to Col Bel). The path continues steeply south-east and then east up a mountain-pine shoulder, awkward with roots, rounds the spur of Cima della Lasta and enters the Val Brent, climbing it on the right to the wild Busa del Contron de Inte (about 1,770 m). Navigate largely by eye from here, on cairns and sparse red marks: cross the boulder- and larch-strewn bowl under the Piz de Contron, bear left around the buttresses of Cima delle Laste over scree (snow or ice early in the season) to the Forcella dei Camorz, and traverse the second, smaller bowl, the Busa del Contron de Fora, staying high. Aim for a small gully that cuts the north-north-east ridge (cresta de la Mussaia): a first move of grade II, then broken rock (I) and debris lead to a notch on the ridge. Follow the ridge, narrowing and airy in places above the deep east side, to the summit cross. Descend the same way (2½–3 hours), with great care on the gully and the loose ground; the grade II step is easier to downclimb than it looks. This is a remote, little-frequented area of the Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park with no water and no huts; carry everything and be confident on steep, loose terrain.

Start

Forcella Franche997 m

  • A bus stop exists at Forcella Franche on the Val Imperina road (Rivamonte Agordino); timetables not verified
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Forcella Franche → Piz di Mezzodì4.01,275324h 49m

Waypoints

  1. Parking:
    Forcella Franche997 m
  2. Summit:
    Piz di Mezzodì2,240 m

Key Passages

  • Steep, rooty mountain-pine shoulder above Soracroda
  • Route-finding across the Busa del Contron
  • Gully with a grade II step onto the Mussaia ridge
  • Narrow, exposed upper ridge above the east face

Equipment

0/5 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Navigation
Other

Downloads

Route confidence 70%

Overview

The highest summit of the Monti del Sole (2,240 m), one of the wildest and least-visited corners of the Dolomites, in the Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park above Lago del Mis and the Agordino. Its normal route from Forcella Franche is a long, partly marked scramble through lonely boulder bowls with no huts and no water.

Piz di Mezzodì, also called Monte Pizzon or Piz de Mezodì, crowns the Monti del Sole, a tangle of steep Dolomite ridges and gorges between the Mis valley and Lake Mis to the south-west and the Cordevole valley and Agordo to the north and east. The group lies within the Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park and is famous for being almost abandoned: paths are old hunters' and woodcutters' ledges (viàz), marked trails involve grade I–III scrambling, and the climber Ettore Castiglioni called it the 'last corner of unknown land'.

Surprisingly, the highest summit is also the most accessible. The normal route approaches from the north, from the road pass of Forcella Franche above Rivamonte Agordino, avoiding the forbidding southern amphitheatres. Even so it is a serious walk for experienced hikers: steep pine-covered slopes, route-finding by cairns through the remote Busa del Contron, a grade II step and a narrow, exposed final ridge.

From the cross you look across to the Agner, Civetta, Schiara and Pizzocco and down to Lake Mis. The mountain has several tops close together.

Climbing Notes

Only for experienced mountain walkers who can move confidently on steep, loose and exposed ground and find their way without continuous waymarks. Allow 3½ hours up and 2½–3 hours down for about 1,250 m of ascent. There is no hut, bivouac or water on the route; carry everything and a GPS track, and use Tabacco map 024. A helmet is sensible in the gully and on the ridge.

The route is described for spring to autumn. Early or late in the year, snow and ice on the pine shoulder, the scree below the Forcella dei Camorz and the ridge make crampons, ice axe and poles essential. Avoid it in fog, wet weather or with thunderstorms forecast, as the bowls are disorienting and the rock becomes treacherous. Tell someone your plans: the area sees very few people.

History

The first ascent was made by the Ampezzo guide Santo Siorpaes with Gottfried Merzbacher (and, according to Camptocamp, the chamois hunter Becca), who described it in the Zeitschrift of the DÖAV in 1879 as 'Monte Pizzon di sopra'. Sources disagree on the date: 16 August 1877 (Italian Wikipedia) or 9 September 1878 (Camptocamp). The faces of the Monti del Sole were mostly climbed between 1969 and 1984 in a rivalry between climbers from Belluno and Feltre.


Season

Best Sep–Oct
  1. January: Possible
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Not advisable
  4. April: Possible
  5. May: Good
  6. June: Best
  7. July: Good
  8. August: Good
  9. September: Best (best window)
  10. October: Best (best window)
  11. November: Possible
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter ascent possible for experienced parties with crampons; ice on the shoulder and ridge
Feb
Winter conditions; avalanche and fall risk
Mar
Snow in the bowls
Apr
Lingering snow on north-facing slopes
May
Snow patches in the Busa del Contron
Jul
Hot in the pine; afternoon thunderstorms
Aug
Afternoon thunderstorms
Oct
Stable autumn weather; short days
Nov
Early snow and ice possible
Dec
Winter conditions

Access & Permits

Rules
  • The route lies in the Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park; follow the park rules posted at the trailheads
Getting There

Agordo; Rivamonte Agordino

Venice Marco Polo (VCE) or Treviso (TSF)

  • Car: from Belluno up the Cordevole valley (SR203); just south of Agordo turn off through Rivamonte Agordino towards Gosaldo to Forcella Franche (990 m), parking on the left
  • Bus: a bus stop exists at Forcella Franche on the Val Imperina road; timetables not verified

Hazards

  • Exposure
  • Rockfall
  • Remoteness
  • Weather