Parseierspitze

From the car park behind the outdoor pool in Grins (about 1,110 m) follow path 634/42 via the Tschafellwiesen, the Wasserfallböden, the Gasillbach bridge, Obergufel and the Gasill gorge to the Augsburger Hütte (2,298 m), about 3 hours and 1,200 m. From the hut go back down the approach path to the first signpost and turn off towards the Gasillschlucht and the Parseierspitze (Augsburger Höhenweg). Climb steeply through the cirque to its upper rim. The Fernerwand, marked by a large red dot in the middle of the cirque, starts very steeply with rungs and a wire cable; a system of ledges then rises right onto the Grinner Ferner, a small, shrinking firn field crossed without a path towards the middle of the broad south face. The classic start was a reddish-yellow slab, about 20 m and almost vertical, with a cable and a few rungs, which is strenuous up and down and exposed to rockfall. In July 2026 DAV Augsburg opened a new start about 50 m further left (west), in a large yellowish rock niche, zigzagging to a wide scree ledge and traversing right to rejoin the route; it is provisionally equipped with static ropes and a few foot rungs, with steel cables planned for 2027. Above, red dots lead up and right over loose marl to near the east ridge; below the summit traverse left to avoid a vertical step, then right to the top, where the rock changes to solid limestone for the last 50 m. Allow 2–2½ hours from the hut. Descend the same way; the start section must be downclimbed (or abseiled with at least a 50 m rope, as there are no fixed anchors). The scree on the face is very loose: watch for stonefall from parties above and avoid knocking anything down. Many parties return over the Gatschkopf (2,945 m). The approach from the Memminger Hütte via the Spiehlerweg and Patrolscharte is currently not recommended (see notices).