Naranjo de Bulnes / Picu Urriellu
2,518 m
Spain
Also known as Picu Urriellu, Naranjo de Bulnes, +1Also known as
Picu Urriellu · Naranjo de Bulnes · Pico Urriellu
- Elevation
- 2,518 m
- Prominence
- 193 m
- Difficulty
- 7/10
- Hard alpine
- Best Season
- Jul–Sep
- Routes
- 1
RegulationReported 1 Jun 2026 · until 12 Oct 2026
Regulated access to Collado de Pandébano in 2026 (28 March–5 April, 1–3 May, May weekends and 1 June–12 October): private cars allowed only while the 72 parking places are free; buses run to Sotres.
turismoasturias.es
Routes
1Sources differ: 5a (French free-climbing grade, hardest pitches) (Camptocamp) · IV+ (Some guidebook descriptions of the hardest pitch)
There is no walking route to the top of the Naranjo: the easiest line is a five-pitch, roughly 150–280 m rock climb up the south face (French 5a, UIAA V− at most), opened in 1944 and descended by four abseils. Approach from Collado de Pandébano to the Vega de Urriellu refuge (2½–3 hours), then round the peak via the Canal de la Celada.
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 7.7 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,433 m
- −132 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 2,518 m
- Time Up
- 6h
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 4h 16m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From the end of the track at Collado de Pandébano (about 1,220 m), above Sotres, follow the waymarked PR-PNPE-21 path past the shepherds' huts and small refuge at La Terenosa (water) and up the steep zigzags of the Canal del Vallejo to the Vega de Urriellu and its refuge (1,953 m) at the foot of the west face, about 2½–3 hours and 750 m of ascent. Most parties sleep here; some bivouac below the south face to beat the queues. From the refuge, go round the peak on the north side and up the Canal de la Celada, passing below the west, north and east faces, to the base of the south face below Collado de la Celada, about an hour. The route starts in the middle of the face below a niche holding the first belay. Five pitches follow: a short, slightly polished groove (5a) to the niche, a 40 m pitch of grooves (5a), two pitches of III–IV (4a) in a vague corner and runnels, and an easier 50 m pitch with one step of III to the last belay. Then walk, unroped or moving together, up the broad summit ridge to the left to the top. Belays have chains for abseiling but there is almost no fixed protection on the pitches, and the start is polished. Descend by four abseils down the same line (a single 50 m rope is sufficient per Camptocamp). This is also the descent for every other route on the peak, so expect parties abseiling over you and queues in high summer; start early. Return to the refuge and down to Pandébano the same day, or spend a second night.
Start
Collado de Pandébano1,217 m
- ALSA buses from Arenas de Cabrales to Poncebos with a connection to Sotres during the regulated season (2026: weekends in spring and 1 June–12 October); about 5 km on foot from Sotres to Pandébano.
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Collado de Pandébano → Refugio de Urriellu | 5.6 | 792 | 58 | 3h 28m |
| 2 | Refugio de Urriellu → Picu Urriellu | 2.0 | 641 | 77 | 2h 33m |
Waypoints
- Parking: Collado de Pandébano1,217 m
- Hut: Refugio de la Terenosa1,306 m
Small unstaffed shelter and spring; last water before Urriellu
- Hut: Refugio de Urriellu1,954 m
- Feature: Canal de la Celada1,898 m
Gully on the north side of the peak used to reach the south face
- Col: Collado de la Celada2,227 m
South face base lies just below; route starts in the middle of the face
- Summit: Picu Urriellu2,518 m
Key Passages
- Steep zigzags of the Canal del Vallejo below the refuge
- Canal de la Celada round the north side of the peak
- Polished first pitch into the niche (5a)
- Second pitch of grooves (5a, 40 m)
- Four abseils down the south face, often with traffic
Equipment
0/9 packedDownloads
Route confidence 75%Overview
A free-standing limestone tower (2,518 m) in the Central Massif of the Picos de Europa and the emblem of Spanish climbing. No path reaches the top: the easiest way is a five-pitch rock climb up the south face (UIAA V−) from the Vega de Urriellu refuge.
The Naranjo de Bulnes, known locally as Picu Urriellu, stands alone above the Vega de Urriellu in the Central Massif (Los Urrieles) of the Picos de Europa, in the Asturian municipality of Cabrales and inside Picos de Europa National Park. It is not the highest summit of the range (Torre Cerredo is higher), but its block shape and sheer walls, 550 m high on the west face, make it the best-known mountain in Spain among climbers. The name 'Naranjo' is often linked to the orange tint of the rock at sunset, though the origin is uncertain.
Every route is a rock climb. The normal route, the Directa de los Martínez on the south face, is five pitches of grooves and runnels at French 5a at most, on excellent but partly polished limestone, descended by four abseils. Around forty harder routes cover the other faces, from classic lines such as the Pidal-Cainejo and Cepeda to modern test-pieces on the west face.
The approach is part of the appeal: a 2½–3 hour walk from Collado de Pandébano above Sotres to the busy refuge at the foot of the west face. The mountain is close to the Atlantic, so cloud and sea fog can arrive quickly even in summer.
Climbing Notes
You need to lead or be led up multi-pitch rock to French 5a/UIAA V− with largely traditional protection, and to abseil confidently in traffic. Parties without that experience should hire a mountain guide; guided ascents of the south face are common from Arenas de Cabrales and Sotres.
Typical itinerary: walk from Collado de Pandébano to the Refugio de Urriellu in the afternoon (2½–3 hours), climb next morning starting early to beat the queues, and descend to Pandébano the same day. Book the refuge in advance; in high summer the face is crowded and slow parties are the main delay. In the regulated season, parking at Pandébano is limited to 72 places, so arrive early or take the bus to Sotres and walk the extra 5 km.
The limestone dries quickly but is slippery when wet, and sea fog can make the descent to the refuge confusing. Snow lingers in the Canal de la Celada and on the approach into early summer; winter ascents are serious mixed undertakings.
History
The first ascent was made on 5 August 1904 by Pedro Pidal, Marquis of Villaviciosa, and the shepherd Gregorio Pérez, 'El Cainejo', from Caín, by the line now called the Vía Pidal-Cainejo; they had to downclimb it. The German geologist Gustav Schulze made the second ascent, solo, on 1 October 1906, and was the first to abseil the south face. The Directa de los Martínez on the south face was opened in 1944. María Pérez, El Cainejo's granddaughter, became the first woman on the summit in July 1935. The first winter ascent followed on 8 March 1956 (Ángel Landa and Pedro Udaondo). Alberto Rabadá and Ernesto Navarro climbed the west face on 21 August 1962; a 1970 attempt on that face ended in a 13-day stranding and a much-publicised rescue in which one climber died. In 2009 Iker and Eneko Pou freed Orbayu on the west face, graded 8c+/9a.
Season
Best Jul–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Not advisable
- April: Possible
- May: Possible
- June: Good
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Good
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; refuge winter room only (staffed from 15 March)
- Feb
- Winter; snow and ice on the face and approach
- Mar
- Refuge staffed from mid-March; winter conditions
- Apr
- Snow on the approach; possible on warm dry spells for experienced parties
- May
- Snow patches in the Canal de la Celada; changeable weather
- Jun
- Good; snow lingering in gullies early in the month
- Jul
- Main season; crowded on the face; sea fog possible
- Aug
- Main season; busiest; start early
- Sep
- Often stable and quieter
- Oct
- Shorter days; cold rock; Pandébano regulation ends mid-October
- Nov
- Early winter conditions
- Dec
- Refuge staffed until 15 December; winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Book the Refugio de Urriellu through reservarefugios.com. Climbers with confirmed bookings arriving before 19:00 have priority, then alpine-club members; after 19:00 places go first come, first served.
- Fees
- Refugio de Urriellu (FEMPA, 2025–2026 rates): overnight EUR 15 for alpine-club members, EUR 20 for non-members; dinner EUR 19, breakfast EUR 8
- Bus Arenas de Cabrales–Sotres EUR 2.60 one way, EUR 5 return (2026)
- Rules
- Picos de Europa National Park regulations apply; camping and bivouacking are regulated
- Collado de Pandébano: during regulation periods, cars may drive up only while the 72 parking places are free; no overnight stays or camping in vehicles or tents at the col
- Getting There
Arenas de Cabrales (Sotres is the nearest village)
Asturias Airport (OVD); Santander Airport (SDR)
- By car: Arenas de Cabrales – Poncebos – Sotres, then the 4 km unpaved track from the bend at the entrance to Sotres (La Curvona) to Collado de Pandébano; access regulated in 2026 on spring weekends and 1 June–12 October
- Bus: ALSA from Arenas de Cabrales to Poncebos with a connection to Tielve and Sotres in the regulated season (tickets online in advance); walk about 5 km to Pandébano
- Alternative approaches: Bulnes (funicular from Poncebos) via the Canal de Camburero, or the Fuente Dé cable car via Horcados Rojos
Hazards
- Exposure
- Rockfall
- Weather
Huts & Shelters
2- 1,300 m
Refugio de la TerenosaBivouacUnstaffed
- 1,953 m
Refugio de UrrielluRefugeStaffedBooking required
96 beds · Staffed 15 March – 15 December; winter room with 6 bunks the rest of the year