Lauterbrunnen Breithorn
3,780 m
Switzerland
Also known as Breithorn, БрайтхорнAlso known as
Breithorn · Брайтхорн
- Elevation
- 3,780 m
- Prominence
- 464 m
- Difficulty
- 6/10
- Alpine climb
- Best Season
- Jul–Aug
- Routes
- 1
AdvisoryReported 13 Jun 2026
The new Mutthornhütte (2,788 m, SAC Weissenstein, 60 places) opened for summer 2026, replacing the hut closed in March 2022 for rockfall danger. Staffed season 2026: 13 June – 27 September (not guaranteed). The Stechelberg approach is no longer recommended because of rockfall from the Chanzel. Route descriptions and times written for the old hut may differ slightly.
mutthornhuette.ch
Routes
1Sources differ: AD+ (SAC Jungfrau Region guide (2010), Berner Alpen Auswahlführer (2013) and bergcenter.ch: ZS+) · Camptocamp: AD, 3b, engagement III (Camptocamp)
The easiest route up the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn and a classic mixed ridge: a glacier approach to the new Mutthornhütte (opened 2026), the Petersgrat glacier plateau to the Wetterlücke, then over 1 km of mostly sound gneiss ridge (UIAA III, some bolts, pitons and a cable) and a corniced snow crest to the summit. Usually two days.
About 78% of this line is approximate (no mapped trail; drawn from the terrain). Check it against a map before relying on it.
Why? 6 check notes
- 78% approximate geometry
- DIN time down 8.01 h vs published 4.5 h (+78%)
- Heimritz → Neue Mutthornhütte: glacier (detour, 8.2 km)
- Petersgrat → Wetterlücke: glacier (snap_failed, 3.2 km)
- Wetterlücke → Breithorn: dem (snap_failed, 1.8 km)
- unresolved waypoints: Kanderfirn
Elevation Profile
approximate line- Distance
- 17.0 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +2,498 m
- −269 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,781 m
- Time Up
- 10h 59m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 8h 01m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
Day 1: from Selden in the Gasterntal (bus from Kandersteg) walk up the valley past Heimritz and onto the Kanderfirn, then up the glacier to the new Mutthornhütte (2,788 m) at the western foot of the Mutthorn; the hut can only be reached over glaciers (about 4.5–5.5 hours, 1,260 m). Alternative approaches come from the Lötschental (Fafleralp) over the Petersgrat and from the Kiental over the Gamchilücke; the approach from Stechelberg over the Tschingelfirn is currently not recommended because of rockfall from the Chanzel. Day 2: from the hut go south across the crevassed glacier onto the broad Petersgrat near the rock island at point 3163, skirt the large hollow at its foot and follow the crest north-east below the south face of the Tschingelhorn (about 3,200 m) to the Wetterlücke (3,169 m), 1.5–2 hours. Start the west ridge directly (the access gully to the first gendarme mentioned in older guides is now often dangerous; in good snow the first step can be bypassed on the south side). Follow the crest; the rock is mostly sound and the climbing never hard but long, with bolts on the narrow section to the first gendarme. Pass the first step slightly right of the crest by two big steps (III), then for the second traverse right across a broad gully of loose rock with metal stakes and follow a fixed cable back to the crest. The ridge then eases into a corniced snow crest leading to the last rocks and the summit (3,780 m), about 3 hours from the Wetterlücke; SAC gives 5–6 hours and 1,120 m from the hut. Descend the same way (gipfelbuch.ch: 4–5 hours back to the hut), or from the Wetterlücke down the remote inner Fafleral valley to the Fafleralp in the Lötschental. The west-facing ridge dries slowly in the morning after rain or fog and can be iced.
Start
Selden1,552 m
- Train to Kandersteg, then the Kandersteg–Gasterntal bus to Selden (summer).
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Selden → Neue Mutthornhütte | 9.3 | 1,293 | 81 | 5h 38m |
| 2 | Neue Mutthornhütte → Breithorn | 7.7 | 1,200 | 188 | 5h 20m |
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Selden1,552 m
Bus from Kandersteg into the Gasterntal (summer)
- Feature: Heimritz1,633 m
- Hut: Neue Mutthornhütte2,783 m
- Feature: Petersgrat3,111 m
Glacier plateau, reached near the rock island at point 3163
- Col: Wetterlücke3,149 m
- Summit: Breithorn3,780 m
Key Passages
- Kanderfirn glacier approach
- Petersgrat glacier plateau to the Wetterlücke
- First step on the ridge (two grade III steps right of the crest)
- Traverse of the loose gully with metal stakes and the fixed cable
- Corniced snow crest below the summit
Equipment
0/7 packedDownloads
Route confidence 61%Overview
The Lauterbrunnen Breithorn (3,780 m) closes the head of the Lauterbrunnen valley with a huge north face and three bold ridges. Its west ridge, a long AD mixed route from the new Mutthornhütte over the Petersgrat glacier, is the easiest way up.
Usually called the Lauterbrunnen Breithorn (Lauterbrunner Breithorn) to tell it apart from the many other Breithorns, notably the nearby Lötschentaler Breithorn, this peak stands on the Bern–Valais border between the Tschingelhorn and the Grosshorn. Its north side drops in a wall of rock and ice to the remote upper Lauterbrunnen valley, while the south side falls to the Lötschental. Three prominent ridges define it: the west ridge from the Wetterlücke, the north-east ridge and the Chervet rib.
The west ridge (SAC AD, ZS+ in recent guides) is the normal route: a glacier approach to the Mutthornhütte, a crossing of the broad Petersgrat glacier plateau to the Wetterlücke, then over a kilometre of mostly sound gneiss with grade III steps, a few bolts, stakes and a fixed cable, finishing on a corniced snow crest. The north-east ridge and Chervet rib are much harder (D to TD-).
Long approaches long kept the Breithorn quiet. The old Mutthornhütte was closed in March 2022 because of rockfall danger; a new, solar-powered hut on the western foot of the Mutthorn opened in 2026 and has revived interest in the mountain.
Climbing Notes
You need solid glacier skills (crevasse rescue, navigation on a large plateau), confidence moving roped together on exposed grade III rock and corniced snow, and the fitness for two long days. Typical itinerary: day 1 from Selden in the Gasterntal over the Kanderfirn to the Mutthornhütte (4.5–5.5 hours); day 2 to the Wetterlücke and up the ridge (5–6 hours from the hut), then back to the hut (4–5 hours) or down to the Lötschental. A third day is often needed to get back to the valley. Start late enough for the west-facing rock to dry after a cold or misty night, and avoid the ridge when iced. Guided ascents are offered by Bernese Oberland guide offices.
History
Edmund von Fellenberg with the guides Peter Michel, Peter Egger, Johann Bischoff and Peter Inäbnit made the first ascent on 31 July 1865. A rival party, James John Hornby and Thomas Henry Philpott with Christian Almer and Christian Lauener, reached the summit a few minutes later on the same day.
Season
Best Jul–Aug- January: Not advisable
- February: Not advisable
- March: Possible
- April: Possible
- May: Not advisable
- June: Possible
- July: Best (best window)
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Good
- October: Not advisable
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; hut closed
- Feb
- Winter
- Mar
- Ski-mountaineering on the Petersgrat; the ridge in winter is for experts
- Apr
- Spring ski tours; summit ridge corniced
- May
- Hut closed; ridge snowy
- Jun
- Hut opens mid-June; snow on the ridge
- Jul
- Main season
- Aug
- Main season; glaciers more open late in summer
- Sep
- Good conditions; hut staffed until late September
- Oct
- Hut closed; early snow
- Nov
- Winter
- Dec
- Winter
Access & Permits
- Hut Booking
- Mutthornhütte SAC (new): hut-reservation.org (hut 14), +41 33 853 13 44, info@mutthornhuette.ch.
- Fees
- Kandersteg–Gasterntal bus fare; hut overnight fees
- Rules
- The old Mutthornhütte (2,900 m), its winter room and surroundings remain closed by the authorities because of rockfall danger; use the new hut at 2,788 m
- The approach from Stechelberg is no longer recommended by the SAC because of rockfall from the Chanzel
- Inside the UNESCO World Heritage Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch area
- Getting There
Kandersteg (Lauterbrunnen and Blatten/Lötschental for other approaches)
Bern (BRN); Zurich (ZRH) or Geneva (GVA) by train
- Train to Kandersteg, then the Kander Reisen bus into the Gasterntal to Selden
- Alternative approaches: Lötschental (Fafleralp) via the Uisters Tal and the Petersgrat (SAC F, 5.5–6 h); Kiental (Griesalp) via the Gamchilücke (PD); Stechelberg via the Tschingelfirn is currently not recommended (rockfall from the Chanzel)
Hazards
- Glacier
- Crevasses
- Cornices
- Rockfall
- Exposure
- Weather
- Remoteness
Huts & Shelters
1- 2,788 m
Neue MutthornhütteHutStaffed
60 beds · Staffed mid-June to late September (fully July–August; 2026: 13 June – 27 September, not guaranteed); closed October–May