Fisht

2,854 m

Russia

Also known as Fišt, Fischt, +8

Fišt · Fischt · Mount Fisht · Monte Fisht · Mont Ficht · monte Fišt · ფიშტი · Fisjt · Fiszt · Фишт

Elevation: 2,854 m
Prominence: 1,391 m
Difficulty: 4/10; Alpine hike
Best Season: Aug–Sep
Routes: 1

Summit not accessible
The Caucasus Reserve prohibits ascents of Fisht; its marked route ends at the Fisht shelter.
zapovedtravel.ru

RegulationReported 10 Jun 2021
The Caucasus Reserve announced that ascents of Fisht and Oshten are prohibited: the summits are not part of any route, visiting them counts as leaving the route, and the tourist bears full responsibility for safety.
kavkazzapoved.ru

Routes

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AlpineF+UIAAIIGlacierNormal route

Sources differ: 1B (Russian); counted as 1B for climbing ranks only from 15 October to 15 May, i.e. considered easier in summer (southural.ru)

The classic beginner's alpine ascent of the westernmost glaciated peak of the Caucasus: 20 km on Caucasus Reserve route 30A from the Lagonaki checkpoint over the Abadzesh, Guzeripl and Armyansky passes to the Fisht shelter (about 1,600 m), then a 4–6 hour summit day by the Red Rocks, the karst north plateau, the small Big Fisht glacier and an easy rock ridge.

This route ends at Приют Фишт, about 2.2 km from the summit, which is not accessible. Distance, ascent and times are to that point.

Elevation Profile

Distance: 18.6 km; one way
Ascent: +526 m; −720 m lost on the way up
High Point: 2,057 m
Time Up: 6h 15m; DIN 33466
Time Down: 6h 23m; DIN 33466 · same way back

From the Lagonaki checkpoint on the Lagonaki plateau, Caucasus Reserve route 30A crosses the karst plateau past the Abadzesh pass (2,043 m) and the Instructors' Gap camp, then the Guzeripl (1,965 m) and Armyansky (1,865 m) passes, and descends to the Fisht shelter on the right bank of the upper Belaya (about 1,600 m), about 20 km. The reserve's schedule allows a full day for this, with a rest day at the shelter. A shorter approach (about 9.7 km) comes from Yavorova Polyana. On summit day leave by 06:00. Cross the bridge over the Belaya and head for the Red Rocks, spurs of Pshekho-Su, keeping them on your right. A broad couloir (about 200 m, 20–45°, snow-filled early in the season, otherwise rock steps, water-worn slabs and ledges) leads onto the north plateau, a gentle karst slope full of fissures and sinkholes that is easy to get lost on in fog. Turn left and climb about 500 m at 10–20° towards the summit tower to a large rock tooth, pass it on the left and step onto the Big Fisht glacier, only about 1 × 1.2 km and lightly crevassed, but with hidden crevasses under snow early in summer. Climb straight up a slope that steepens to 30–60° near the top (about 200 m) left of the rock outcrops to the ridge, then turn left and follow easy rock (about 200 m, UIAA I–II) to the summit, which may carry a cornice on the shelter side. Allow 4–6 hours up from the shelter and descend the same way; a full round trip is often 9–12 hours. The Caucasus Reserve does not include the summit in any tourist route and has stated that ascents of Fisht and Oshten are prohibited and count as leaving the route.

Start

КПП Лагонаки1,774 m

No regular public transport reaches the Lagonaki checkpoint, which is about 75 km by road from Maikop and 30 km from Dakhovskaya; most groups use a transfer or 4x4.

Stages

Day	Stage	km	m ascent	m descent	Time
1	КПП Лагонаки → Приют Фишт	18.6	526	720	6h 15m

Waypoints

Trailhead:
КПП Лагонаки1,774 m
Caucasus Reserve checkpoint on the Lagonaki plateau; start of route 30A
Col:
Абадзешский2,046 m
Feature:
Инструкторская щель2,047 m
Official reserve campsite
Col:
Гузерипльский1,987 m
Col:
Армянский1,867 m
Hut:
Приют Фишт1,581 m
Fisht shelter, right bank of the Belaya (not on route line)
Waypoint:
Приют Фишт1,581 m
Summit not accessible beyond this point

Key Passages

Couloir beside the Red Rocks onto the north plateau
North plateau karst (navigation in fog)
Big Fisht glacier and the steep snow slope to the ridge
Easy rock ridge (I–II) to the summit

Equipment

0/10 packed

Downloads

Route confidence 70%

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Overview

Fisht (about 2,854–2,867 m) is the limestone giant of the Fisht-Oshten massif in Adygea and the westernmost peak of the Caucasus with glaciers. Its classic Russian 1B route crosses a small glacier from the Fisht shelter on the famous 'Route 30' to the Black Sea, inside the Caucasus Biosphere Reserve.

Fisht rises at the western end of the high Caucasus, where the Lagonaki plateau meets the main watershed, together with Oshten (2,804 m) and Pshekho-Su (2,744 m). It is a massive limestone block with steep walls of up to several hundred metres and a karst-riddled north plateau. Its small glaciers, the Big and Small Fisht glaciers, are the westernmost in the Greater Caucasus and among the lowest-lying in Europe; the Small glacier shrinks visibly every year.

The Fisht shelter on the upper Belaya, at about 1,600 m, is the base for nearly all climbs. It lies on the reserve's route 30A, the descendant of the Soviet All-Union 'Route 30' from the Lagonaki plateau over the passes to the Black Sea at Solokh-Aul. From the shelter the classic route takes 4–6 hours via the Red Rocks, the north plateau, the Big Fisht glacier and an easy rock ridge. Harder lines include the south-east ridge (2A) via the Small glacier and the Fishtinsky pass, and wall routes up to 5A and beyond.

The mountain lies entirely in the Caucasus Biosphere Reserve. The reserve allows tourists only on its marked routes and has said explicitly that ascents of Fisht and Oshten are prohibited and count as leaving the route, so the many commercial 'Fisht ascents' operate at the climbers' own risk.

Climbing Notes

Suitable as a first glaciated summit for fit walkers with basic crampon and ice-axe skills; go with an experienced leader or guide if you are new to glaciers. Plan at least four days: a long day of about 20 km from the Lagonaki checkpoint to the Fisht shelter, a summit day of 9–12 hours return, and the walk out or onward to Babuk-Aul and the sea. Leave the shelter by 06:00. In fog the north plateau is a maze of sinkholes, so carry a GPS track. Until mid-summer the glacier is snow-covered and crevasses are hidden; July to September is the usual window. Thunderstorms and wind on the summit ridge are a serious hazard; turn back early if the weather builds. You need a reserve pass for the whole stay, must camp only at designated sites, and should register the trip with the MChS.

History

The botanist N. M. Albov was among the first to climb Fisht and Oshten and mentioned his ascents in an 1894 publication. Krasnodar climbers established and graded four routes from 1B to 5A in the 1980s, and in 2000 a party led by M. Foigel climbed a new 3A route on the east wall. The first winter ski traverse of the massif was made in 1958 by a group led by V. V. Litvinov.

Season

Best Aug–Sep

January: Not advisable
February: Not advisable
March: Not advisable
April: Not advisable
May: Not advisable
June: Possible
July: Good
August: Best (best window)
September: Best (best window)
October: Possible
November: Not advisable
December: Not advisable

Jan: Winter mountaineering only; reserve routes closed
May: Passes under snow; avalanche risk in the couloirs
Jun: Route 30 opens once the passes are clear (from 10 June in 2021); glacier under snow
Jul: Glacier clearing; afternoon storms
Aug: Glacier usually bare, crevasses visible
Sep: Often stable weather
Oct: Reserve routes close by order in October; first snow

Access & Permits

Permits

Caucasus State Biosphere Reserve pass (route 30A or other Fisht shelter routes)Required
Required for every day in the reserve; buy online on the route page of kavkazzapoved.ru or at reserve checkpoints such as Lagonaki. The pass covers the marked route and the Fisht shelter, not the summit.
zapovedtravel.ru

Hut Booking

The Fisht shelter has fixed tents with bunks (6–10 people each), sleeping platforms in two buildings and free tent space; bring your own sleeping bag. Online tent booking via lagonaki.ru was suspended at the time of checking; contact the reserve or the operator by phone.

Fees

Reserve visit fee per person per day: 300 roubles over 14, 150 roubles aged 7–14, under 7 free (approximate, per the reserve booking site); check current tariffs
Fixed tents and sleeping platforms at the Fisht shelter are paid in cash; pitching your own tent is free

Rules

The Caucasus Reserve does not include Fisht or Oshten summits in any tourist route and has stated that ascents are prohibited and count as leaving the route; climbers take full responsibility
Walk only on marked reserve routes and camp only at designated sites (Instructors' Gap, Fisht shelter, Babuk-Aul); fines apply for camping elsewhere
No dogs or other pets, no fires outside fire pits, no collecting plants
Routes open and close by reserve order, usually June to October

Getting There

Dakhovskaya (Adygea); Maikop

Krasnodar (KRR); Sochi (AER) for the southern exit

By road from Maikop (about 75 km) or Dakhovskaya (about 30 km) up to the Lagonaki plateau and the reserve's Lagonaki checkpoint; transfers and 4x4 taxis are the usual option
Alternative approach of about 9.7 km to the shelter from Yavorova Polyana
Southern exit: over the Belorechensky and Cherkessky passes to the Babuk-Aul shelter and down to Solokh-Aul, then transport to Sochi (Dagomys)

Hazards

Glacier
Crevasses
Rockfall
Avalanche
Weather
Exposure

Huts & Shelters

Приют ФиштRefuge
Summer, while reserve route 30 is open (about June–October)
Website of Приют Фишт
1,600 m