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Comaloforno

3,029 m

Spain

Also known as Pic de Comaloforno

Pic de Comaloforno

Elevation
3,029 m
Prominence
689 m
Difficulty
4/10
Alpine hike
Best Season
Jul–Sep
Routes
1

Routes

1
3D Preview
UIAAIISACT4ScrambleNormal route

Sources differ: F+ (RutasPirineos (via the Gémena lakes and Besiberri Sud))

The most direct line: from the Cavallers reservoir (about 1,750 m) a steep, faint path climbs the east slope through the Pas de l'Ós to the boulder fields of Malavesina and the Estany Gelat de Comaloforno (2,685 m), then very loose scree and a gully lead to the crest and a few easy climbing moves (II) to the summit. A long day of about 1,300–1,400 m.

Elevation Profile

approximate line
1,5002,0002,5003,0003,5000 km1234Pas de l'ÓsPic de Comaloforno
Distance
4.5 km
one way
Ascent
+1,374 m
start → summit
High Point
3,029 m
Time Up
5h 14m
DIN 33466
Time Down
3h 28m
DIN 33466 · same way back

From the Cavallers car park at the end of the road above Caldes de Boí, climb the steps to the top of the dam and cross it. A path starts at the west end of the dam and climbs the steep east-facing slope, first through woodland with some rock steps, then through ever larger granite blocks to the Pas de l'Ós (about 2,490 m), where you squeeze through or round a narrow passage under a boulder. The path is faint and overgrown in its lower part; cairns help. Beyond the Pas de l'Ós the path fades. Head west across the boulder chaos of Malavesina, with the Comaloforno–Besiberri crest in view, to the Estany Gelat de Comaloforno (about 2,685 m). Cross the flat ground beyond for about 15 minutes and climb the scree towards the gap between Comaloforno and the Agulla de Malavesina / Besiberri Sud. The final scree and gully are very loose and steep: wear a helmet, keep the party close together or climb one at a time, and avoid the rotten ground right against the wall. Once on the crest, a few easy climbing moves (II) and a short walk lead to the summit, about 5 minutes from the gap. Descend the same way, taking great care in the loose gully, where most stones are dislodged. Strong parties add Besiberri Sud (3,023 m) from the same gap. An alternative approach from the Toirigo car park below Cavallers climbs the Llubriqueto valley past the Gémena lakes to the Collada d'Abellers, Besiberri Sud and the crest to Comaloforno (F+, with I–II moves; RutasPirineos gives about 6½ hours to the summit).

Start

Cavallers Part Baixa1,698 m

  • No bus to Cavallers. Bus to El Pont de Suert or the Vall de Boí; the summer 'Bus del Parc' links Boí and Espot, and Vall de Boí taxis serve the park's trailheads.
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Cavallers Part Baixa → Pic de Comaloforno4.51,374435h 14m

Waypoints

  1. Parking:
    Cavallers Part Baixa1,698 m

    National park car park (free); the upper car park by the dam may be closed to cars

  2. Feature:
    Presa de Cavallers1,736 m

    Cross the dam; the path starts at its west end

  3. Crux:
    Pas de l'Ós2,481 m

    Narrow passage among boulders

  4. Feature:
    Estany Gelat de Comaloforno2,678 m
  5. Summit:
    Pic de Comaloforno3,029 m

Key Passages

  • Steep, faint path up the east slope from the dam
  • Pas de l'Ós boulder passage
  • Malavesina boulder fields
  • Very loose final scree gully to the crest
  • Easy climbing moves (II) on the crest

Equipment

0/7 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Clothing
Navigation
Other

Downloads

Route confidence 65%

Overview

A granite three-thousander (3,029 m) at the southern end of the Besiberri crest, above the Cavallers reservoir in the Vall de Boí, and with Besiberri Sud one of the two highest points of the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park. Technically easy, but a long, rough day on boulders and very loose scree.

Comaloforno closes the south end of the Besiberri chain, the granite crest that runs north–south between the Vall de Boí and the Noguera Ribagorçana, with Besiberri Sud, the Agulles de Malavesina and Besiberri Nord to the north. Its east side drops in steep walls and buttresses to the boulder-filled basin of the Estany Gelat de Comaloforno; from Cavallers it looks like a rocky promontory between cliffs, which makes the easy finish surprising.

The mountain is in the national park, and the setting is wild: lakes, small snowfields that last through summer in some years, and large tracts of granite blocks where paths disappear. The normal route from the Cavallers dam is not technical (a few moves of II at the top), but the effort and the ground are what matter: about 1,300–1,400 m of ascent, long boulder fields, little or no path above 2,500 m, and a final scree gully that most reports describe as very loose. A helmet is needed.

Comaloforno is often combined with Besiberri Sud from the same gap, or reached by the airy crest from Besiberri Sud; the full Besiberri ridge traverse to Besiberri Nord is a serious mountaineering outing.

Climbing Notes

You need good fitness for a long day of 8–11 hours with 1,300–1,700 m of ascent depending on the line, confidence on boulder fields and steep loose scree, and map and GPS skills, as there is little path above the Pas de l'Ós. Move one at a time or very close together in the final gully to limit the danger from dislodged stones. No rope is needed in summer.

Bivouacking and camping are prohibited throughout the national park and its peripheral zone, so the ascent is usually done in a day from the Cavallers car park; start at first light. Water is found along the route in summer. Early in the season, or after autumn snow, crampons and an ice axe may be needed for the snow below the face. Thunderstorms are common on summer afternoons, and the descent of the loose ground is slow.

History

Camptocamp records the first ascent on 25 July 1882 by Jean Bazillac and Henri Brulle with the guide Célestin Passet, and the first ski ascent on 17 April 1927 by Lluís Estasen and Jofre Vila, during a ski traverse from Caldes de Boí to the Hospital de Vielha, described by Estasen in the Butlletí of the Centre Excursionista de Catalunya.


Season

Best Jul–Sep
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Not advisable
  4. April: Not advisable
  5. May: Not advisable
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Best (best window)
  10. October: Possible
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter; ski mountaineering only for experienced parties
Feb
Winter; avalanche terrain
Mar
Spring ski mountaineering for experienced parties
Apr
Spring snow; avalanche risk
May
Snow on the upper route
Jun
Snow below the face; ice axe and crampons may be needed
Jul
Main season; afternoon thunderstorms
Aug
Main season; usually only small snow patches
Sep
Often stable; shorter days
Oct
Early snow and ice possible
Nov
Winter conditions
Dec
Winter conditions

Access & Permits

Hut Booking
No hut on this route. The park has nine refuges (booking recommended in summer); the Refugi Ventosa i Calvell (about 2,214 m) is reached from the head of the Cavallers reservoir but lies off the Comaloforno line.
Fees
  • National park car parks (including Cavallers, 125 spaces) are free
Rules
  • Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park: overnight stays outside refuges, camping and bivouacking are prohibited throughout the park and its peripheral zone, including car parks (except the designated areas at Estallos and Riumalo)
  • National park: dogs must be kept on a lead at all times; no bathing in lakes or rivers; no fires; no drones
  • Vehicles wider than 2 m are not allowed on the park access roads
Getting There

Caldes de Boí and Boí (Vall de Boí); El Pont de Suert for services

Lleida-Alguaire (ILD), Toulouse-Blagnac (TLS) or Barcelona (BCN)

  • Car: N-230 to El Pont de Suert, L-500 through the Vall de Boí to Caldes de Boí, then the narrow paved road to the Cavallers car parks
  • Bus: no service to Cavallers; the summer park bus (Bus del Parc) links Boí and Espot, and Vall de Boí taxis serve park trailheads such as Toirigo

Hazards

  • Rockfall
  • Exposure
  • Weather
  • Remoteness