Cima Piazzi
3,439 m
Italy
Also known as Cima de’ Piazzi, Cima de Piazzi, +1Also known as
Cima de’ Piazzi · Cima de Piazzi · Cima de' Piazzi
- Elevation
- 3,439 m
- Prominence
- 1,212 m
- Difficulty
- 5/10
- Easy alpine
- Best Season
- Aug–Sep
- Routes
- 1
AdvisoryReported 6 Sep 2025
A trip report from 6 September 2025 found a landslide across a traverse on the moraines above the Val Verva lakes; parties had to drop down and climb back up beyond it.
hikr.org
Routes
1Sources differ: EE – A – I+ – F (VieNormali.it) · I (hikr.org report, 6 September 2025)
The summer normal route on the highest peak of the Livigno Alps: up the Val Verva to Passo di Verva (2,301 m), east past small glacial lakes at about 2,600 m, then up steep moraine, scree and a rock band on the south-west face to the south shoulder and a short chained rock step (I+) to the summit cross. About 1,570–1,830 m of ascent and 5½ hours up; no huts on the route.
Elevation Profile
- Distance
- 13.1 km
- one way
- Ascent
- +1,661 m
- −118 m lost on the way up
- High Point
- 3,439 m
- Time Up
- 7h 25m
- DIN 33466
- Time Down
- 5h 21m
- DIN 33466 · same way back
From Arnoga (1,874 m) on the Bormio–Livigno road, follow the Val Viola road for just under 2 km to the Alpe Campo junction, cross the Bormina by a bridge and climb the track into the Val Verva past the Verva farms to Passo di Verva (2,301 m). The same pass can be reached from the south from Eita above Grosio, on a long gravel track past Lago Acque Sparse and Le Crote; this saves about an hour (the Eita road is paved, with a pay-and-display ticket at Fusino). From the pass, faint tracks lead east up the valley, keeping the stream on the right, then join cairns and marker poles; ford the stream and pass between two small lakes at about 2,600 m (Lago del Valun or Lago Spalmo della Val Verva, not shown on the Swiss map). A long, steep moraine slope leads north-east to a snowy basin at about 2,900 m below the south-west face. A rock band about 100 m higher is passed on the left, either by a narrow gully (I) or by a scree ramp from right to left and easy broken rock (I-). In 2025 a landslide on a traverse forced a short descent and re-ascent. Above, long slopes of rubble and snow, trending right, lead to the south shoulder and a small snowfield (avoidable on the left) below the summit block. The last 20 m of steep broken rock are equipped with chains (I+); the final few metres are a smooth vertical slab that can be avoided by an exposed ledge about 20 cm wide on the left. Descend the same way. The face is loose: wear a helmet and avoid being below other parties. VieNormali gives 5½ hours up and 9½ hours return from Arnoga.
Start
Arnoga1,895 m
- Bus along the SS301 Bormio–Livigno road to the Arnoga stop
- Parking at the trailhead
Stages
| Day | Stage | km | m ascent | m descent | Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Arnoga → Cima Piazzi | 13.1 | 1,661 | 118 | 7h 25m |
Waypoints
- Trailhead: Arnoga1,895 m
- Feature: Alp Verva2,116 m
- Col: Passo di Verva2,298 m
- Summit: Cima Piazzi3,439 m
Key Passages
- Pathless upper Val Verva above Passo di Verva
- Steep moraine slope to the basin at about 2,900 m
- Rock band on the south-west face (I-/I)
- Chained summit block (I+) and the exposed 20 cm ledge
Equipment
0/6 packedDownloads
Route confidence 75%Overview
The highest summit of the Livigno Alps (3,439 m), a broad, partly glaciated massif between the Valdidentro, Valdisotto and Val Grosina above Bormio. Its summer normal route is a long, loose and pathless scramble up the south-west face with a short chained rock step to the summit cross.
Cima Piazzi (Cima de' Piazzi) rises between the Val Grosina, the Valdidentro and the Valdisotto in upper Valtellina, west of Bormio. With about 1,210 m of prominence it is the culminating point of the Piazzi–Paradisino chain and the dominant mountain seen from Arnoga, where its glaciated north face fills the view.
The summer normal route avoids the ice: it climbs from the Val Verva on the south-west side, reached from Arnoga on the Livigno road or from Eita above Grosio. Above Passo di Verva the route is a long ascent over moraine, scree, snowfields and a rock band, mostly without a path and with only sparse cairns, to a short chained summit block (I+). It is technically easy (F) but long (1,570–1,830 m of ascent), loose and committing, with no hut on the way.
The north side, from the Bivacco Cantoni in the Val Lia, is a glacier route best done in late spring or early summer while the ice is snow-covered; glacier retreat has made it harder. In winter and spring Cima Piazzi is a popular, serious ski-mountaineering objective.
Climbing Notes
For experienced mountain walkers fit enough for a 9–10 hour day with up to 1,800 m of ascent on rough ground. Route-finding above Passo di Verva is the main difficulty: tracks are faint and cairns sparse, so carry a GPS track and avoid the route in poor visibility. The rock band and summit block need hands (I to I+); the summit chains help, and a short sling can reassure less experienced climbers.
Wear a helmet: the south-west face is loose and stones are easily knocked down onto parties below. Snow lingers in the upper basin and on the shoulder until midsummer, and early-autumn snowfall can ice the rocks in the gully, so carry crampons and an ice axe outside high summer.
There is no hut on the route. Start at first light from Arnoga or Eita; Rifugio Eita at the southern trailhead offers accommodation the night before.
History
First ascent on 21 August 1867 by Johann Jakob Weilenmann with Franz Pöll and Santo Romani, by the north-east ridge; Pöll repeated it with Clarke on 2 August 1868. In July 1876 Damiano Marinelli, Alfonso Holskneckt and Battista Pedranzini made the third ascent by the east side and the south ridge, descending the south-west side, roughly the line of today's summer normal route.
Season
Best Aug–Sep- January: Not advisable
- February: Possible
- March: Good
- April: Good
- May: Possible
- June: Possible
- July: Good
- August: Best (best window)
- September: Best (best window)
- October: Possible
- November: Not advisable
- December: Not advisable
- Jan
- Winter; ski-mountaineering only
- Feb
- Ski-mountaineering for experienced parties
- Mar
- Ski-mountaineering season
- Apr
- Ski-mountaineering season
- May
- Late ski tours; north-side glacier route in good snow
- Jun
- Much snow on the south-west face; glacier route best now
- Jul
- Snowfields shrinking; loose rock emerging
- Aug
- Summer normal route mostly snow-free; afternoon storms
- Sep
- Stable weather; early snowfall can ice the gully
- Oct
- Short days, snow on the upper face
- Nov
- Winter conditions
- Dec
- Winter conditions
Access & Permits
- Fees
- Road toll for the road to Eita: a EUR 5 ticket from the machine near the church at Fusino (2025)
- Rules
- The road from Arnoga into the Val Viola and Val Verva is officially closed to motor vehicles
- Getting There
Bormio; Grosio (Eita approach)
Milan Bergamo (BGY) or Milan Linate (LIN)
- Bus along the SS301 Bormio–Livigno road to Arnoga
- Car: from Bormio via Premadio, Isolaccia, Semogo and San Carlo to Arnoga
- Car: from Grosio in Valtellina up the Val Grosina via Fusino to Eita (paved road, toll ticket)
Hazards
- Rockfall
- Remoteness
- Weather
- Avalanche
- Glacier