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Cima dei Preti

2,706 m

Italy

Also known as Cuel dal Preôt

Cuel dal Preôt

Elevation
2,706 m
Prominence
1,417 m
Difficulty
5/10
Easy alpine
Best Season
Jul–Sep
Routes
1

Routes

1
3D Preview
AlpinePDUIAAIISACT5Sources differ: EEA - AR - II - PD (VieNormali.it) · T6 (Outdooractive (Little Fish Trek) without a rope)ScrambleNormal route

Sources differ: EEA - AR - II - PD (VieNormali.it) · T6 (Outdooractive (Little Fish Trek) without a rope)

A big day of almost 2,000 m from Ponte Compol (729 m): a steep, rough path above a gorge to Bivacco Greselin in the Cadin dei Frati, then broken ground and ledges to a 65–100 m gully of sustained I–II climbing with piton belays, and scree through the high cirques to the summit of the Friulian Dolomites. 4¾ h up; a 30 m rope is useful for the gully.

Elevation Profile

5001,0001,5002,0002,5003,0000 km123456Bivacco GreselinCima dei Preti
Distance
6.6 km
one way
Ascent
+2,103 m
−133 m lost on the way up
High Point
2,706 m
Time Up
8h 06m
DIN 33466
Time Down
5h 29m
DIN 33466 · same way back

From Cimolais drive up the Val Cimoliana to Ponte Compol (729 m), where there is parking just before the toll barrier into the valley. Path 374, then path 358 (initially shared with the path to Casera Lodina), follows a forest road and crosses the Compol stream, runs fairly level to a pool with a waterfall, then climbs for about an hour very steeply on rough ground above a gorge, which needs care especially in descent. Above, it traverses mugo pine slopes to Bivacco Greselin (about 1,920–1,990 m) in the Cadin dei Frati, about 2½–3 hours from the car. Many parties sleep here to split the 2,000 m of ascent. Behind the bivouac, cairns lead up a gully of large boulders (I) and steep grass, then a path along the base of a rock band that bars the way to the Cadin de Meso. There are two normal lines through the band, considered equal in difficulty: the Via Berti takes a ledge to a small terrace below a 65–100 m gully, entered by an exposed 6 m slab with a piton (II), followed by sustained I–II climbing with several belays on pitons and slings; the other starts up a dihedral further left, marked higher up with red dots. Above, cairns lead over scree and easy rock (I) through the Cadin de Meso and Cadin Alto to the summit, with a bell and a Madonna statue. Descend the same way; the gully is slightly harder going down, and less experienced parties often abseil it from the belays (about two 25–30 m abseils). The route-finding above the gully relies on cairns and faint traces, so go only in settled weather with good visibility, and never with snow, ice or after rain. Allow 4¾ hours up and 7½–9 hours for the round trip.

Start

Ponte Compol734 m

  • Not practical: buses reach Cimolais, but Ponte Compol is about 5 km further up the Val Cimoliana road.
  • Parking at the trailhead

Stages

DayStagekmm ascentm descentTime
1Ponte Compol → Cima dei Preti6.62,1031338h 06m

Waypoints

  1. Parking:
    Ponte Compol734 m
  2. Bivouac:
    Bivacco Greselin1,992 m
  3. Summit:
    Cima dei Preti2,706 m

Key Passages

  • Steep path above the gorge below Bivacco Greselin
  • Exposed slab with a piton at the foot of the gully (II)
  • Gully of sustained I–II climbing with piton belays
  • Cairned scree through the Cadin de Meso and Cadin Alto

Equipment

0/7 packed
Technical
Safety
Footwear
Clothing
Navigation
Hut & Camping

Downloads

Route confidence 75%

Overview

The highest summit of the Friulian Dolomites (2,706 m), on the border of Friuli and Veneto above the Val Cimoliana. A lonely, demanding normal route of nearly 2,000 m, with a bivouac halfway and a gully of grade II climbing.

Cima dei Preti ('Priests' Peak', Cuel dal Preôt in Friulian) rises on the boundary between the provinces of Pordenone and Belluno, in the Duranno group of the Carnic Prealps, the highest point of the Friulian Dolomites. It forms a group with the neighbouring Duranno, and the Val Cimoliana, in the Dolomiti Friulane Natural Park, drains its eastern side.

This is a wild mountain without huts or waymarked paths to the top. The normal route starts low, at 729 m, so the ascent is close to 2,000 m. A rough path above a gorge leads to the small Bivacco Greselin in the Cadin dei Frati; above, the route threads through rock bands and high scree cirques, and a gully of sustained grade I–II climbing gives the key to the upper mountain. Cairns and faint traces are the only guide.

The reward is solitude and a summit that sees few visitors compared with the main Dolomites a short distance west. It suits fit, experienced mountain walkers who can climb grade II rock, preferably with a short rope for the gully.

Climbing Notes

You need excellent fitness for nearly 2,000 m of ascent and the ability to climb and down-climb exposed grade II rock; route-finding skills matter above the gully. Splitting the trip with a night at Bivacco Greselin is common. A helmet is essential because of rockfall in the gully, and a 30 m rope with a few slings lets the party belay or abseil the gully from the fixed pitons.

Go from late June to early October in settled weather with good visibility forecast all day; avoid the route with snow, ice or after rain, when the gully and the steep path above the gorge become dangerous. Water is usually available on the path to the bivouac and at the bivouac itself, but do not rely on it late in a dry summer. The Val Cimoliana road beyond Ponte Compol is a toll road in season; the trailhead itself is just before the barrier.

History

The first ascent was made on 23 September 1874 by the Cortina guide Santo Siorpaes and Maurice Holzmann.


Season

Best Jul–Sep
  1. January: Not advisable
  2. February: Not advisable
  3. March: Not advisable
  4. April: Not advisable
  5. May: Not advisable
  6. June: Possible
  7. July: Best (best window)
  8. August: Best (best window)
  9. September: Best (best window)
  10. October: Possible
  11. November: Not advisable
  12. December: Not advisable
Jan
Winter; not advisable
Feb
Winter
Mar
Winter
Apr
Snow on the upper mountain
May
Snow in the gullies
Jun
Late June possible; check for snow in the gully
Jul
Main season; start early because of thunderstorms
Aug
Main season
Sep
Often stable weather
Oct
Possible early in the month in dry weather; short days and risk of ice
Nov
Winter conditions
Dec
Winter

Access & Permits

Hut Booking
Bivacco Greselin is an unstaffed bivouac; no booking.
Fees
  • The Val Cimoliana road beyond Ponte Compol is a toll road at weekends and in the summer season (recent guides give EUR 6 per car); not needed to reach the Ponte Compol trailhead
Rules
  • Within the Dolomiti Friulane Natural Park (Parco Naturale Dolomiti Friulane); park rules apply
Getting There

Cimolais

Venice Marco Polo (VCE) or Treviso (TSF)

  • By car: A27 to Ponte nelle Alpi, SS 51 to Longarone and SR 251 to Cimolais; from Cimolais follow the narrow road north into the Val Cimoliana for about 5 km to the car parks at Ponte Compol
  • Public transport reaches Cimolais only

Hazards

  • Rockfall
  • Exposure
  • Weather
  • Remoteness

Huts & Shelters

1
  • Bivacco GreselinBivouacUnstaffed

    1,920 m